2004 Precedent seems low on power

[Jeff McGuire]

Yeah you can see the belt isn't riding all the way up on the secondary clutch.

[Jeff McGuire]

Even though you have the throttle cable zip tied, grab the throttle at the carb while you rev it and make sure its wide open. Just want to make sure your cables are adjusted right and the governor isn't still throttling it back some.

[Fairtax4me]

I hear something in there making some racket. What's the voltage output of the starter generator at full throttle? If you take the belt off does the pulley in the starter spin freely? Do you have a spare starter generator laying around you can put on it? Kinda wonder if that's got something going on internally and causing some drag at higher rpms?

Looks like the throttle cable is pulling all the way, but if you pull the cable with your hand it doesn't rev up any more than that?

[Cdk]

Originally Posted by Jeff McGuire

Even though you have the throttle cable zip tied, grab the throttle at the carb while you rev it and make sure its wide open. Just want to make sure your cables are adjusted right and the governor isn't still throttling it back some.

Thanks for the reply Jeff. To be clear, I am working the throttle blade with my hand, directly at the carb. The governor is not playing any roll. I have checked multiple times when the peddle is floored to ensure the throttle blade is fully open.

I appreciate everyone’s input on this!

[Cdk]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

I hear something in there making some racket. What's the voltage output of the starter generator at full throttle? If you take the belt off does the pulley in the starter spin freely? Do you have a spare starter generator laying around you can put on it? Kinda wonder if that's got something going on internally and causing some drag at higher rpms?

Looks like the throttle cable is pulling all the way, but if you pull the cable with your hand it doesn't rev up any more than that?

I did a quick test at the battery terminals. Voltage is 12.4 at rest, and jumps to 15.0 volts at full throttle. As far as I know that within spec for charging. I’ll pull the belt and see if the starter is dragging.

[Cdk]

Check the starter, spins freely by hand.

I feel like this has to be a fuel issue. I’m going to replace the fuel pump to start.

Edit: fuel pump is fine. It shoots fuel almost a foot when you unhook the line.

[Jeff McGuire]

well I'm stumped!

[CP241]

It really seems to me like a carb issue. You said you pulled it and cleaned it, what did you use? Keeping in mind this cart is 15 years old, sometimes the only way to really get them clean is with an ultrasonic cleaner, only.other option is to replace with a new OEM carb. Do you have another cart you can swap carbs, if nothing else just to see if it makes a difference?

[Cdk]

Originally Posted by CP241

It really seems to me like a carb issue. You said you pulled it and cleaned it, what did you use? Keeping in mind this cart is 15 years old, sometimes the only way to really get them clean is with an ultrasonic cleaner, only.other option is to replace with a new OEM carb. Do you have another cart you can swap carbs, if nothing else just to see if it makes a difference?

I don’t think the carb is original, it’s pretty shiny still. It does look Oem though. I removed float bowl, checked float operation, pulled all the jets, carb cleaner through everything, compressed air through every port. I’ve worked on a ton of snowmobile carbs, same procedure I use with them.

I’m going to order another carb through Nivel (I’m a dealer), just to eliminate that completely.

Could it be dropping spark at high rpm somehow?

[Fairtax4me]

Are there any numbers etched in the side of the carb body?
Is there a drain screw on the bottom edge of the bowl?
The cheapo Replacement carbs don’t have either. And if that’s some aftermarket carb it may be the problem.

I’ve had a couple Cheapo carbs that threw in the trash because they did nothing but cause problems. Two of them wouldn’t start right because the ports for the idle air mixture pilot screw were partially blocked by the shoddy casting process.
The other would lean out at higher RPM and cause the engine to stumble when trying to go up hills. That one was on an fe350 in a transporter cart and it wouldn’t get out of its own way when the weather was hot. I put an Original Club car carb on it that I patched together from spare parts I found in three different cabinets and now I can pull a horse with it.