Club Car DS exhaust pipe extension

[bigkahuna75]

I searched the forum and couldn't find an answer for the DS. I added a seat kit on the back but the exhaust pipe ends right under the rear seat so kids can smell exhaust in the back.

Wondering about adding some pipe to it and sending it out the very back under the rear seat foot plate.

Ideally I'd like to give it support from the body but the body moves a ton with people on it and the exhaust/engine on the frame don't move so pipe needs to be flexible.

Tiny exhaust pipe looks to be 3/4" can anyone confirm? Was looking at the Walker 1" flexible tubing - I figure I can probably just clamp it on and because it's flexible it should handle the movement. Wish it didn't come in a 25' roll only ($35). I only need about 4'. Walker is just galvanized not stainless though so guessing it will rust pretty quick.

Anyone found a good solution for this? Maybe flexible exhaust tubing and I can feed it all the way to the back step.

[CP241]

The pipe should end just above the rear axle, pointing almost straight down onto it. If it's not, then it may have rusted and fell off.

It's just aerodynamics, extending the pipe probably isnt going to make a lot (if any) difference. Just like when you drive on wet streets in a SUV or van, the back window gets all the most on it. Or dirt roads. Look at a car video in a wind tunnel where they show the air, theres always some "back current" that will carry stuff from underneath, and swirl around the back (where the kids are).

That said, it really shouldnt smell.*that* much. I've had more gas carts than I can count, and the only ones that stunk weren't running right. May want to try a tune up (valve adjustment, fresh NGK plug, filters, etc.) And see if it helps.

[bigkahuna75]

I just did an oil change, fuel filters, air filter, and differential fluid.

The oil smelled like gas so I suspect it's running too rich which is also the reason the exhaust smells like gas.

After the tune up it's definitely running better though and was less smelly.

I totally get what you're saying about the updraft though. If I leave my SUV back window open at slow speeds 15-25mph it just sucks the exhaust into the car, so bad that I have to open up all the windows.

I'm just thinking if I route the flexible pipe all the way to the very back it might make a difference especially as the rear seat has a foot plate that extends another 1.5 feet past the back of the cart. If I get it all the way back there I think it might help. I can also aim it out the side which might help as well. Worth a try. Only concern is that the exhaust will have to travel about 3 feet but don't think that will cause any issues.

[CP241]

Extra length to the pipe should not cause any issues, no.

However, your oil smelling like gas is an issue. It should never smell like gas. If it does you have a carb issue that needs to be corrected. Usually it is the needle/seat either not seating (just takes a grain of sand) or I've had more than one now that the o ring on the back of the seat (where it attaches to the carb body) leaks despite the needle seating fine. I've only successfully removed the plastic seat/float bracket once without breaking it. All other times have resulted in a broken seat, they're not meant to come out and not available separately.

If its dumping enough to make it into the crankcase then it's definitely running rich and will contribute to excessive smell.

Also possible you have fuel entering the crankcase by way of the fuel pump pulse line. If the diaphragm cracks or leaks it can allow fuel to bypass the pump and drain into the crankcase.

I'd also recommend a new NGK spark plug (they're only like 3 bucks but make sure to get NGK) and a valve sdjustment. Valves shouldn't have any impact on exhaust smell, but are often overlooked and can make a huge difference in how easily it starts and how smoothly it runs

[buggyAl]

Old Maytag washing machines we gas powered (1920's-1970's). These were a single or double cylinder 2-cycle engine at a 16:1 ratio. They really smoked. The motor was mounted under the machine and a 12' X 3/4" flexible metal conduit ran through the wash house wall to a muffler outside. I would go to a big box store and look at using flexible metal electrical conduit. The exhaust may provide enough oil residue to keep it from rusting badly. It is available in different sizes.

[bigkahuna75]

Originally Posted by buggyAl

Old Maytag washing machines we gas powered (1920's-1970's). These were a single or double cylinder 2-cycle engine at a 16:1 ratio. They really smoked. The motor was mounted under the machine and a 12' X 3/4" flexible metal conduit ran through the wash house wall to a muffler outside. I would go to a big box store and look at using flexible metal electrical conduit. The exhaust may provide enough oil residue to keep it from rusting badly. It is available in different sizes.

Good idea - I'll have a look and see what they have.

[wicked872]

I use watertight conduit, available at home improvement stores, cut off the outer plastic coating and you have 3/4 inch flexible pipe.