SF service shop recommendation for 85 gas ezgo

[Shugs]

Just bought my first cart (85 gas ezgo) and just joined the forum -- seems like a great community here!

I'm not particularly handy and, while I hope to learn more/tinker with my new cart over time, I wanted to start out by having a reputable local shop take a gander and tune her up.

Any recommendations for a good shop in San Francisco (or the Bay Area in general if not in SF)? Please let me know if that's not ok to post on the forums here (maybe you can send me a PM if so?). I know some forums frown on posts that could be construed as overly commercial.

Thanks,
Shugs

[Dave Box]

Hello Shugs and welcome to the forum, here you will find the answer to every question that you might have.
I can't help you with a repair shop as here in Virginia I couldn't be any further away from you, however I can assist with any issues you might have with your little 2PG engine.
The motor (as I am sure you are aware) is a simple 2 stroke which makes maintenance a snap. Now you say that you are not too handy with a wrench so here are a couple of things that are real easy and will make a big difference (if they have not already been done recently). First off, get a new spark plug. That is easy to change and makes a big difference on the 2 stroke. Next replace the air filter, again a big improvement for little outlay and an easy fix. Then I would get myself a little cheap grease gun and find the zerk fitting under the steering box at the end of the steering column. Give that about 5 or 6 pumps. Now get underneath and grease every zerk you see. They will be on everything that swivels. From memory I think that there are 7 but I could be wrong there. Now enjoy your cart.
As a future project, and if it is still there, it might be in your best interests to remove the oil pump system and premix the gasoil. Generally the first sign of the oil pump letting go is when the engine seizes up so many guys, myself included, ditch it. That is a project for the future but if you need any further information shout out and a dozen or so guys will come right back.
Finally just let me climb up on my high horse. If you are premixing the correct ratio is 128:1 which is 1 ounce of two stroke oil to 1 gallon of gasoline. Also it is not sufficient to just toss the liquids into your fuel tank. In order to mix the solution you should use a container and vigorously agitate.
Dave

[Shugs]

Thanks for the starter tips Dave. After browsing the forums for a few days, I hoped you might chime in! :-)

As I said, I'm not too handy. And I don't have any sort of manual for the cart. So just a few basic questions...

- The person I bought this from has been running it very rich (or lean??) with a 50:1 ratio. Other than likely "gunking things up" is this likely to have caused problems? And what all do I want to do to "undo" the effects? Clean out fuel lines? Clean out other things??

- Can you recommend what model/brand of spark plug to get? And do I only need one?

- Can you recommend what model/brand of air filter to get?

- What the heck is a zerk?? I suppose I can Google it but thought I'd ask... And when you say "at the end of the steering column I suppose that would be accessed by looking under the front of the cart, right?

- Does the fact that the PO said they were using a 50:1 mix mean they already stopped using the oil pump? I.e., is the oil pump (when still in use) used to mix in oil (as opposed to pre-mixing it with the fuel)? If not, what is it for (and what will I no longer get if I ditch it)?

- I also noticed when I test drove it that it a) seemed like it had low power especially for the first minute or so; b) definitely spit out a decent amount of smoke (I'm guessing due to the 50:1 mix they were using) and; c) had a couple of small backfires when I quickly stomped on/released the gas pedal.

Thanks!

-Shugs

[Dave Box]

Thanks for the starter tips Dave. After browsing the forums for a few days, I hoped you might chime in! :-)

- Can you recommend what model/brand of spark plug to get? And do I only need one?

You can get the spark plug (just the one) and air filter from any cart store. I like to recommend those who sponsor this forum and here is a link to the page at my favorite store http://www.everythingcarts.com/c-420...ark-plugs.aspx

- What the heck is a zerk?? I suppose I can Google it but thought I'd ask... And when you say "at the end of the steering column I suppose that would be accessed by looking under the front of the cart, right?

A zerk is also known as a grease nipple and is what the grease gun snaps onto. The steering box is located just above the accelerator and the brake pedals. If you look the zerk will be obvious and once you know what it looks like then get under the front end and hook up to every one you see. You should pump the grease gun until you see clean grease oozing out of the joint.

- Does the fact that the PO said they were using a 50:1 mix mean they already stopped using the oil pump? I.e., is the oil pump (when still in use) used to mix in oil (as opposed to pre-mixing it with the fuel)? If not, what is it for (and what will I no longer get if I ditch it)?

In the beginning 2 strokes ran on a straight blend of oil and gas. In the late 70's Yamaha realised that the amount of oil needed varied according to engine speed So when the engine was idling it was in fact wasting oil. As an attempt to placate the EPA the oil pump just pumped more oil at higher revs. The problem was that when the pump let go it generally failed in the closed position and starved the engine of oil. To see if it has been removed you should look under the seat. On the firewall there should be an oil reservoir with a short line to the pump which is mounted on the crankshaft in front of the engine. From the pump there should be an oil line to the elbow right behind the carburetor. Now if it has been set to premix the line to the carburetor should be either cut and capped or removed completely and a bolt placed in the top of the elbow. It is quite acceptable to leave the reservoir and the pump in place but it looks neater if you pull it all out.

- I also noticed when I test drove it that it a) seemed like it had low power especially for the first minute or so; b) definitely spit out a decent amount of smoke (I'm guessing due to the 50:1 mix they were using) and; c) had a couple of small backfires when I quickly stomped on/released the gas pedal.

The definative test is of course to use a compression tester and see how the engine is doing but if you don't like that idea then just run the cart. I am sure that the 50:1 mix will have messed with your spark plug and probably put enough crap into your exhaust pipe to cause some backfiring. I would change the parts that we have discussed and get the thing on 128:1. If the tank is still using 50:1 I would try to syphon the tank and then add the same amount of straight gas which will get you to ~100:1 which is close enough.

If you have any more questions or if I have been insufficiently verbose just keep posting here I (and many smarter guys than me) will be happy to steer you right.

Thanks!

-Shugs

You're welcome

Dave

[Shugs]

Ok. It's been awhile but I finally started to work on the cart a bit today (after ordering some replacement parts, more on that in a sec...).

Replace the air filter (it was shot). Check.

Replace the gas filter (it wasn't shot but wasn't great). Check.

Grease the zerks. Check.

Confirmed that the PO had already removed the oil pump/lines and had plugged the hole with an appropriate bolt. Yay!

Pulled the old spark plug. Totally shot. It was an Autolite 353, which is a 13/16" hex size with a 3/8" reach.

HOWEVER, the replacement plug I ordered from Everything Carts (a site advertiser, as you suggested) is an NGK 3611, which has a 1/2" reach. Now, that is definitely the plug Everything Carts says I should use for this cart, but I'm worried about installing a plug that has a longer reach (couldn't that damage the piston?).

So, to be safe, I went out to a local shop and picked up an Autolite 353.

But I haven't installed either plug yet (just put the old one back in).

The question is, which one is the "right" one to use?

Also, FYI, the NGK plug I ordered from Everything Carts is a "high altitude" plug since this cart is for Burning Man in Nevada and is at 4000' altitude. But even the "normal" elevation plugs from Everything Carts is a 1/2" reach NGK plug so it being the high altitude model isn't the problem.

One other question -- do I need to remove the gas tank to clean it out or can I do it with a stick/some rags, etc.? Just hoping to avoid removing it if I can...

Thanks,
Shugs

[Dave Box]

Hello Shugs and welcome back. It looks like you have made a lot of progress with your cart so kudos to you. The correct plug for your cart is the NGK BP4HS. I would just check that you ordered for the right year. It is possible that 3611 is the equivalent. As it happens when I rebuilt my 86 I found some random plug which I replaced with the longer reach NGK and everything worked out fine.

With regard to cleaning the tank, I did take mine out and it wasn't that difficult (one strap and one bolt). I needed to as it took several evenings of scrubbing the tar like oil off the inner walls. This is the result when owners throw the oil and gas into the tank and expect them to mix together. If you want then try a rag on a stick, if it works then the job is done.

Good luck

Dave

[BrewCityMusic]

if you have a little extra ambition, you can also pull the tank and hit it with about a cup or two of degreaser, then toss in a good handful of stainless steel nuts and roll/shake it around, dump it out and repeat until clean (takes quite a bit of agitation but works well) - just be sure to make SURE you rinse it thoroughly and completely dry it prior to reinstallation.

(I ended up using that trick after about 3 days of sweating, swearing, and struggling with sticks, rags, brushes, etc trying to de-gunk mine, although to be fair it had sat for several years so yours may not be as bad)

Also, that 50:1 really could have left some serious deposits in your fuel lines, muffler, etc - if it were me, I'd look at popping the $10 or so and replacing the fuel lines (to save jet cleanings down the road) and given the amount of smoke in conjunction with the sluggish running it wouldn't hurt to cook the muffler, I'd be willing to bet it's highly restricted due to gunk, deposits, etc and cleaning it out will go a LONG way towards getting you running right (search "Muffler BBQ" here on the forums for the procedure - it's a wee bit unconventional, but effective)

[Shugs]

OK. The muffler and tank are out (but not yet BBQ'd or cleaned out, respectively)!

But it wasn't what I'd call easy. The nuts and bolts were all pretty rusty. And it was **** near impossible to get the tank out past the cart frame. Still not sure I'll be able to get the **** thing back in there...

I assume there's nothing wrong with getting matching nuts, bolts, washers, etc. and using those when I put it all back together, right?!

Also, I bought some "carburetor cleaner" in a spray can. Is it worth using? Do I need to take the carb apart for it to be effective or do I just spray it on the carb/in any visible holes?

Finally, my brake pedal doesn't have a return spring (I think both the "normal" return and also the hill lock thing). You have to physically pull it back up after you've depressed it. I.e., it's a recipe for forgetting to do so and wearing out the brakes real quick.

I've found the two relevant springs (I think) from a forum sponsor but was wondering if anyone has replaced them before/has any tips?

Getting close(ish)...!

-Shugs

[Dave Box]

Shugs,
Good job on getting that stuff out. When you are ready you need to set a big old fire in the yard and drop the muffler on top. It will take about 30 - 60 minutes but at some stage you will see flames shooting out of each end and that will be the oil residue burning off.
As I recall getting the fuel tank back in is tight, I think that it goes in front first and then swings into place, still I know that you will work it out and yes indeed you can use new nuts and bolts without any problem
With regard to the carburetor cleaning, it is a common misconception that you can just spray cleaner into every orifice. Sadly the truth is that you will need to remove every jet and nozzle and clean them individually. The good news is that the BV 18 is a pretty simple device so clean away.
Sorry I have no words about the brake spring, that was the only thing that worked on my cart.
Dave