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Old 01-12-2014, 02:23 PM   #31
chief89
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

thank you for your time today
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:02 AM   #32
chief89
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

OK. Well we got it running. I replaced the condenser then ran into fuel delivery problems. I removed the carb, cleaned and now it runs like a champ. Now on to the next question. The cart only goes about 3 mph. It doesn't appear that the clutch is squeezing down on the belt. I used penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 24 hours and still no movement. Is there anything else I can do before just replacing the clutch?
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:04 AM   #33
chief89
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

By the way 1989 Marathon. Thanks for all your help! You lead me in the bright direction and it worked!
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:17 AM   #34
1989Marathon
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

Quote:
Originally Posted by chief89 View Post
OK. Well we got it running. I replaced the condenser then ran into fuel delivery problems. I removed the carb, cleaned and now it runs like a champ. Now on to the next question. The cart only goes about 3 mph. It doesn't appear that the clutch is squeezing down on the belt. I used penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 24 hours and still no movement. Is there anything else I can do before just replacing the clutch?
Great to see you got it running.

I would take the clutch off the cart. You should be able to bring the two sheaves together by hand. There is just spring pressure holding them apart. If you can't do that, carefully remove the cover(it's under springs pressure)and have a look inside. Maybe post pics. This can be done with the clutch on the cart, but it will be harder to work on.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:25 AM   #35
chief89
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

Great. I'll have to try that. I will be getting back to working on it next weekend. Wish I had the time today. Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:33 AM   #36
1989Marathon
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Default Re: 1979 Robin Engine # EC25DS

Good luck with it. The secondary clutch works opposite. The inner spring holds the sheaves together.
In the primary, check for anything that is broken inside. The weights should pivot freely, and the outer sheave should slide freely on the shaft once the spring is removed.
In the secondary, you will find a helix with 3 ramps on it. There should be plastic wear buttons at the point of contact. I believe there are 6 on your clutch. 3 for forward direction, and 3 for reverse. In this case, the sheave closest to the helix should slide freely on the shaft once the spring is removed.
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