1987 Gas EZGO Marathon

[LenKuch]

Just bought a 1987 Marathon last week and ran OK. Forward and reverse worked fine but now will not start in reverse. I took the directional switch apart because it was very hard to move between Neutral, Forward and Reverse. Contacts very dirty but cleaned up well. Cart still will not start in Reverse. Is there something simple for me to check before I start guessing about all components? Thank you.

[cart around]

Does it turn over in reverse? Does it just crank, and crank without starting in reverse?

Did it quit running in reverse before you took the switch apart?


I'm posting this wiring diagram because it has the second microswitch on the FnR switch that the manual doesn't have. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...n-retrofit.jpg

This is your manual.

[LenKuch]

It does not turnover in Reverse and it quit cranking before i took the switch apart. Thank you for the wiring diagram and manual.

[LenKuch]

It cranks and starts in FORWARD.

[cart around]

I would pull the rubber plugs from the starter, and check to see if the brushes are at the wear line.

These brushes are NOT for your year, but the picture shows what the wear line looks like.
https://www.golfcartking.com/ezgo-st...-package-of-4/

[LenKuch]

Thank you very much as I will check later today. Is there anything else I should check?

[cart around]

As long as the solenoid is activating while in reverse, (I don't see why it shouldn't) The only thing that changes is the direction of the starter, and the FnR switches direction.

Do this test with the power off. Do Not step on the pedal.

Set the switch to reverse. Set your meter to ohms. Check for continuity between the big switch lugs A-D and B-C. That tests the switch that you already cleaned.

( The switch is looked at from the back. A on top, B on the passenger side, C on the bottom, D on the driver's side.)

If the solenoid is not activating while in reverse, there is a microswitch located on the lower passenger side of the FnR switch. That is the one not shown in the manual. Check that for continuity. You could also just check for power at the solenoid small terminals while stepping on the pedal.
That microswitch should make contact in both directions. It is connected in series with the key switch, and pedal switch then to the solenoid.

[LenKuch]

Great. Thank you I will check immediately because I cannot take the caps off the generator/starter due to rust, etc. I squirted WD40, but will take a while. Thank you very much.

[LenKuch]

OK. Checked continuity between the big switch lugs A-D and B-C. Continuity OK. The microswitch on the passenger side makes contact in both directions. The solenoid's contacts are very dirty and it appears it needs major cleaning. Instead I just ordered a new solenoid and should be delivered next week. While I am at it I am going to replace the voltage regulator. Both parts are 31 years old and less than $40. I set the ohm reading between GROUND and terminal "C" and rotated the generator. Ohm reading steady at zero so brushes should be ok. I truly thank you for all your help and will let you know next weekend, provided the parts get delivered.

[cart around]

Are you saying that the solenoid does not activate in reverse? I can tell you that the solenoid is not the problem, and neither is the voltage regulator. It's a bad ground, brushes, positive battery cable, or weak battery.

If the solenoid is not activating, we can even eliminate brushes as the problem. It's a different circuit.

You can use a set of jumper cables to go from the positive battery lug to each side of the solenoid, and then to the starter. I would have to search previous threads, but there is an issue with corrosion on the inside of the positive battery cable that can't be seen. It will sometimes present itself as this issue.