2001 EZGO Series Rebuild

[deerlover]

OK, I also called the guys from D&D motors about a cover for the new solenoid and controller but he said it is not needed. It won't hurt it to get wet, but he said not to submerge it (if that gets submerged, I am in trouble as it will be to the seat). I was more worried about splashing from the back tires...he said it would be just fine! RELIEF!

[deerlover]

Couple of last notes:

1. I did not catch the upgraded Forward and Reverse switch in the above recomendation...dang it! But D&D said my one would last for a little while before burning up, but I just ordered a heavy duty switch from golf cart catalog (hope that was OK to say) - maybe they are a sponsor to this site! So anyway, that is on it's way as we speak!

2. I went to the auto parts store and got some acid to eat away the rust on the battery trays (only rust on the cart). Got that cleaned up pretty well and will paint it tonight (yes, covered my motor and new parts with plastic last night, so I am well prepared to paint away tonight. If it weren't for 2 screws I would have taken that tray out and just submerged it in the acid, but instead I paint brushed it on and then hosed it off. (The body piece that you sit on was right on top of just two screws and if not for that, the pan would have been very easy to remove and do it up real nice) - what i did will do for a long time though!

3. Got some battery connection grease, so I will limit any acid build up as well, which created the rust problem to begin with.

4. Gonna put the batteries in tonight as well and get them their first full charge!

[yurtle]

If you just need to get the struts out of the way, and not necessarily remove the roof, you could tie a rope to the roof and loop it over your garage door opener track.

[deerlover]

Oh yeah and one thing I forgot to mention about the solenoid and new controller. The old ones connected together with a white adapter and 4 wires. The new controller has a much larger set of 4 posts coming out of it. So, since they didn't send me a new wire adapter, I ended up cutting off the old wires and putting adapters on the end that fit like a glove over those posts coming out of the new controller. Not happy with doing it that way as I think they will have a tendancy to maybe pop off if not careful...so I might still find an adapter to replace that job with. Why don't they send that to you in the kit...come on!

[deerlover]

Originally Posted by yurtle

If you just need to get the struts out of the way, and not necessarily remove the roof, you could tie a rope to the roof and loop it over your garage door opener track.

Where were you about 24 hours ago?

[deerlover]

Ok, so I put in all the batteries last night, hooked them up, charged it all night and jacked the back end off the floor so I could test it this morning and see that everything was working (no smoke, etc...).

Put the key in, turned it on, pushed down the gas pedal slightly and NOTHING! The solenoid clicked, but that was it. I put it in reverse and that nasty old back up beep came on...still nothing. (thought they were going to program that thing to not have the beep - will be calling D&D on that today).

Any ideas on what I might have done wrong?

I have not updated my FW and RV switch yet (it is on it's way). Only other thing is I didn't us the fuse to the first battery...probably should have put that on and will tonight as I try and do some figuring and investigating.

[JohnnieB]

If the solenoid is clicking, the problem is in the High Current circuit,
Here is a generic drawing of the High Current circuit for a Series cart.
The controller is different than yours, but the inputs and outputs are the same.
Either the battery pack isn't being connected to the controller, or the controller isn't being told to turn on by the throttle or the controller is bad.

What is the battery pack voltage? (This will be called B+ or reference voltage for troubleshooting)
Here is a Drawing of the battery pack showing where the connect DVM Negative test lead for most testing while troubleshooting.

Quick and dirty test: Attach Positive test lead to M-.
Should read B+ when solenoid first clicks and decrease to near Zero as throttle pedal is pressed to floor.
If not, check for proper throttle input to controller.
If it is good, controller is sick. (Might not be programmed for correct throttle type)

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by deerlover

..........I put it in reverse and that nasty old back up beep came on...still nothing. (thought they were going to program that thing to not have the beep - will be calling D&D on that today)............

The Reverse beeper in a Series cart is controlled by a microswitch (MS-4) mounted on the F/R assembly, where the beeper is also located.
For liability reasons, it should not be disabled, but some electrical tape covering the opening will quieten it considerably.

Unless blown, the fuse should make no different whether the cart runs or not.
There are two different types of fusing, a 50A-60A in the charger cables and/or a 200A (or higher) fuse in the main cable to the controller/motor.

[deerlover]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If the solenoid is clicking, the problem is in the High Current circuit,
Here is a generic drawing of the High Current circuit for a Series cart.
The controller is different than yours, but the inputs and outputs are the same.
Either the battery pack isn't being connected to the controller, or the controller isn't being told to turn on by the throttle or the controller is bad.

What is the battery pack voltage? (This will be called B+ or reference voltage for troubleshooting)
Here is a Drawing of the battery pack showing where the connect DVM Negative test lead for most testing while troubleshooting.

Quick and dirty test: Attach Positive test lead to M-.
Should read B+ when solenoid first clicks and decrease to near Zero as throttle pedal is pressed to floor.
If not, check for proper throttle input to controller.
If it is good, controller is sick. (Might not be programmed for correct throttle type)

OK, this is a bit tec for me, but here is what I know. The voltage is 36 volts, batter, controller, solenoid and motor are all new. Updgraded with 4 guage wires.

If I show you a picture of the set up, can you verify it looks to be correct?

[deerlover]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The Reverse beeper in a Series cart is controlled by a microswitch (MS-4) mounted on the F/R assembly, where the beeper is also located.
For liability reasons, it should not be disabled, but some electrical tape covering the opening will quieten it considerably.

Any way to make this quit all together...understanding the liability issue. It is a hunting cart and no noise is good noise!