ez nogo

[georgia088]

I don’t know that I can help.... I thought you were replacing with the same kind of switch you had originally.

[HarleyOne]

No sorry for the confusion this is a totally different F&R configuration and the wiring diagram is a bit vague

[georgia088]

Maybe this helps?
https://buggiesgonewild.com/attachme...8&d=1425150713

[HarleyOne]

That's the same diagram I have but its not like my controller I have on the cart and it dosen't show a orange wire

[JohnnieB]

You have a Curtis 1206 controller, but I don't have a wiring diagram for a revering contactor using a 1206, however the diagram for a 1204/5 ought to show where the wires in question go.

The blue wire originally the voltage source for MS-2 and Ms-4 on the old F/R switch assembly. Connect it to the wire that connected MS-2's output to the keyswitch.

The Orange wire is 1/2 speed reverse from MS-4 to controller Pin-4. Connect it to the reverse terminal on the new F/R toggle switch.

The black wire is the B- connection to the reverse beeper, which was mounted on the old F/R switch assembly and is no longer in cart. If you want a reverse beeper for safety reasons, which is a good idea, the black wire goes to its "-" terminal and connect the "+" terminal to the new F/R toggle switch's reverse terminal.

[HarleyOne]

So basically your telling me if I dont want 1/2 speed reverse or a backup beeper and i dont i dont need to connect those wire up correct? But i do need to connect the blue wire to the key switch correct?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by HarleyOne

So basically your telling me if I dont want 1/2 speed reverse or a backup beeper and i dont i dont need to connect those wire up correct? But i do need to connect the blue wire to the key switch correct?

Correct.

[HarleyOne]

Ok Finally get back on the old goat I think I have everything hooked up right for the first mock up I still.need new cables and the battery setup but otherwise the cart seem to run good Except I have one issue at 3/4 to full throttle she shuts off and according to the blink code on the controller 2 green and 4 red it says high throttle under range I checked the black and white wires and when the solenoid clicks I have 10.12 volts and slowly falls to 4.89 to 5.04 is the its switch bad???

[HarleyOne]

Here is a pic of the testing

[JohnnieB]

The nominal ITS voltages for an Alltrax controller (all types) is 10V when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, and 6V when pedal is on floor. There is some tolerances on both ends, but I don't know what they are offhand.

Since the error code is High Throttle Under Range, I suspect it means that the 4.98V is too low when pedal is on floor.

One thing I noticed in the pedal box pictures is that where the black test lead is connected isn't shown. It should be on the black wire at the ITS sensor.

The ITS voltage for Alltrax controllers is measured between the black and white wires at the controller and should be the same between the black and white wires at the ITS sensor. (FWIW: The voltage between the wires is what the controller sees, not what is between B- and the white wire like it is for Curtis controllers.)

The ITS voltage readings on the DVM might be a bit off, but you are getting an error, so something is amiss.

First, does the LED flash green 4 times before it goes to solid green when the SR powers up?

If the 4-pin in-line connector on the gray cable coming out of the pedal box still exists, eliminate it with individual butt-splices or solder joints that are waterproofed with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

Also try clearing the throttle auto-cal. (see attached image)

If the above doesn't fix it, the sensor is probably bad. (The $20 ones work just fine)