contactor wiring

[ChevyRacing75]

Thanks lh. Guess we will see what happens tonight Hopefully it works.
I no longer have the hole for the f/r lever on my cart body. I had the paint guy fill it in so I have to get this going before I can put the rear body on.

[LostHusker]

Are you going to use a PDS switch for the Fnr?

[ChevyRacing75]

Originally Posted by LostHusker

Are you going to use a PDS switch for the Fnr?

I have this for now. I dont really want a stock switch but I would like to eventually get something a little different. I am not going to permantley mount this switch, just use it until I find something else

[Andy4639]

That drawing I gave you when you got the contactor where is it? That's all you need. Your not changing anything else Brett!

This is all you need.
The three cables off the old F/R go to the contactor.
S-1, S-2 and A-2. Then B+ goes to the F/R contactor just as the picture shows.
Now for the rocker you need to know which terminal is feeding the switch and which two are feeding the F/R contactor and hook them up to do so.
Wait one more day and I will do my best to show you this on mine OK!

[ChevyRacing75]

Im gonna have to try and figure this out tonight. Untill this is done I cant do anything. My project is at a stand still

[scottyb]

Hold your horses. Sit down and have a beer. You need a new main solenoid if you don't have one for 400/1000a you are not gonna run long. Send more IOUs, Ill send you a worthy solenoid.

[Andy4639]

This cart has made two trips to CAW without any problems at all other than the night time miss hap!
The cart will run fine as long as he doesn't put it in any big bind!
The contactor will work long enough to get it running again. It's 48 volts still. Right Brett!

I need you number buddy!

[sonicj]

you can 86 the main contactor; its redundant.

this diagram shows a separate battery feeding the F&R switch. this would be for like a 12V coil... instead of this configuration, you can feed the F&R switch with the output from the accelerator lockout switch. this is just like it is now, only instead of directly feeding the contactor coil, the accelerator switch output feeds the F&R switch input. make sense?
-sj

*edit* - added revised drawing! i have not tested this circuit. i believe it to be correct, but for safety, i would recommend fusing all outputs accordingly.

[ChevyRacing75]

I didn't do it The body has to get repainted anyway. It looked way to pink in the sun. Between work lately and this cart my hearts gonna give out

[sonicj]

here is a little simpler version...

basically, i just swapped pos & neg to the coils. this way, the pos for the coils can be easily jumpered from the B+ bar on the contactor. negative for the coils comes from battery neg, is activated by the microswitch in the accelerator, then routes through the F&R switch, and finally terminates at the coil neg.

Chevy, do you know if the studs on yours are 3/8"? thanx!
-sj