Camo wrap poll advice

[Dan7man]

Guys I am getting ready to wrap my 2000 DS - I am going with the Max4 camo pattern. From what I've read/researched the "removable - repositionable" 3M seems to be the best quality/choice. I want to know your take from those who have done it:

what brand or website did you get yours from?

Would you use it/them again?

Was it okay to work with/apply or a nightmare?

How has it held up in the woods?

Thanks!

[mymonstertruck]

Mossy oak graphics .com, it is great quality 3m cast vinyl. It's takes two people to apply one to stretch the material and one to heat it up. Don't be afraid to use lots if heat. It's holds up great in the woods, I thought it would tear or scratch. But it doesn't, and I've been threw some **** that I thought for sure it would have been scratched and no damage was done.

[scotter]

My two cents of advice: Best if you have the body panels off the cart. Clean the underside of the body panels where you will wrap around an edge, so the wrap sticks well. I wiped down all surfaces with denatured alcohol to remove any oils, etc. for max. adhesion. An assistant is highly recommended. Measure 2-3 times, then cut once (like lumber) as you only have so much material. Start at the rear of each piece (front cowl and rear body) and move forward, so the overlap of the seem won't snag on "stuff" when you are driving forward (think of shingles on your roof-they are overlapped so water doesn't run under the lower shingles). I used an Avery Dennison product that didn't set until you squeegee'd on with pressure. Was able to re-position if needed. Have fun.

[the_journalist]

Something that's easy to remove once it starts to fade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jim C]

If you remove the body parts you will want to secure them to something so they don't move as you stretch the wrap onto it.
When I did mine, I removed the trim so I could get the wrap under it. I strapped the top to the roof trusses and raised it several inches so I had room to work the wrap. I left the front on while doing the main part of it, and got smart and removed it, put it on the work bench to do the lower front. Which was a real pain because I didn't bother to secure it.

The rear I left on, raised the top, shimmed the body up so the wrap would go behind the trim.

Havn't had mine on long enough to speak of longevity or durability. Mine though is the 3M laminated vinyl not sure it's the same as what your looking at.

[mymonstertruck]

I screwed my body to a sawhorse if you look in my pictures you can see how I did mine.

[Jim C]

How'd ya wrap the cart if you were screw'd to a saw horse? Sorry, lol

[mymonstertruck]

The body has 4 screw holes that holds it to the battery bucket under the seat. I used those holes and then screwed it to the top of the sawhorse.

[Dan7man]

Update - I bought the wrap from CamoWraps.com 3M Cast Vinyl - bought a roll 4'x12' long so I had enough to do new dash, steering column, etc. this was the first time I worked with it and it does take a while to get used to working with it. I am pretty happy with it for the most part but could have done better in a few areas. I think it takes 1 time wrapping a cart then you get the hang of it. Takes a lot of time to do it but I did it all by myself. Would have been nice to have a second pair of hands. Avoiding creases is about next to impossible but they aren't noticeable with camo - you can think of them as a 3D feature! I took the front cowl off but left the rear on. Did the front with 1 piece but had to seem/splice in the rear section. @ $20 per foot it may have been worth it to buy another 4' so you could do it all in one piece? But when rear seat is on I don't think you will notice it too much... Overall pretty happy and much cheaper than dipping (around here they want $750+ to dip just the two bodies pieces... I think the wrap will be more durable in the end too. I had a rifle dipped and it has come off in a few places. Just my two cents.