Installing digital multi function meter

[scottyb]

That's different that the first one I saw. - this looks like a DC unit. still not sure it is what you want though. Measures up to 100 amps, indoor use .

[BigOL3]

Sergio ..... need clarification on 3 points.

1. For the 'load', please give me a specific. I know the motor draws power, but not sure which of the 4 post to use. Is there another neg. 'load' I could use to make it simpler

2. I assume the dark black and red wires need to be heavier cable, rather than 16ga wire?

3. Since the shunt does not meet the 300-400 amps needed, what will happen when the amps go above the shunts capacity of 75? Will the battery %/charge still work?

On the shunt, the small screw if very close to the larger bolt ..... although I do not understand WHY not touching is important, since they are both touching the same metal .... I will ensure NOT to let them touch by attaching an 'eye' on the end of the wire.

I realize all this is 'simple' for many here, but total new for me. Sorry for being a PITA with so many question, but I surely appreciate all the good info.

[BigOL3]

Originally Posted by scottyb

That's different that the first one I saw. - this looks like a DC unit. still not sure it is what you want though. Measures up to 100 amps, indoor use .

Yeah, somehow I missed the indoor part. I will try to give it some 'protection' from rain.

[Sergio]

Why do You keep mentioning the Motor?

The Motor is the wrong place to measure the current as it tells You very little about what is happening with the batteries.

That shunt reaches 0.075v when 100 amps are flowing through it, so where the wires are connected makes a big difference on its accuracy (0.007v = 10 amps difference).

You have to use the little screws for the meter sensing leads and no other wire should touch there.

You normally use the same size cable as Your battery cables to connect to the shunt since it goes in series with your batteries and it must be installed at the pack negative battery connection.

When more than 100 amps flow through that shunt, the output voltage will exceed 75mv and the meter will read overflow.

In your case since the shunt is so undersized for the cart current, it may actually damage the meter as the voltage will be more than twice higher.

That is just not the right meter for this application.

I would also suggest you get a meter with a hall effect sensor since they are a lot less technical to install properly.

[BigOL3]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Why do You keep mentioning the Motor?

The Motor is the wrong place to measure the current as it tells You very little about what is happening with the batteries.because the motor is the ONLY think that I know of that equals 'load'. So again, I will ask what other specific point do I connect to in order to get the 'load'?


You have to use the little screws for the meter sensing leads and no other wire should touch there.

I would also suggest you get a meter with a hall effect sensor since they are a lot less technical to install properly.

LOL ..... I think that might be my best option and send this thing back.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by BigOL3

LOL ..... I think that might be my best option and send this thing back.

That is probably the best option.

You are somehow getting a mental block on this "load" question, I have already answered it several times, but here it goes again:

In order to measure the load current being demanded from your batteries, the shunt must be installed on the pack negative battery post.

[BigOL3]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is probably the best option.

You are somehow getting a mental block on this "load" question, I have already answered it several times, but here it goes again:

In order to measure the load current being demanded from your batteries, the shunt must be installed on the pack negative battery post.

The REASON I keep asking is your diagram show it going INTO the NEG side of 'load', and then coming OUT of the POS side of that same 'load'. To me, that equates to connecting to some sort of apparatus, like a motor, solenoid, battery, etc.

[NoleFan4Ever]

BOL3, here is a link https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-series-EN.pdf to the BMV-700 info sheet. This is the one I run on several of my carts and to my knowledge is just about the best in the industry. These are used on lots of our equipment at work, in the shops, and in the Marine industry here. I can tell you its accuracy is perfect and it tracks everything through that shunt to assure me real time and averages.

Features:
- Battery voltage, current, power, ampere hours consumed and state of charge
- Remaining time at the current rate of discharge
- Programmable visual and audible alarm
- Programmable relay, to turn off non critical loads or to run a generator when needed
- 500 Amp quick connect shunt and connection kit
- Shunt selection capability up to 10.000 Amps
- VE.Direct communication port
- Stores a wide range of historical events, which can be used to evaluate usage patterns and battery health
- Wide input voltage range: 6,5 - 95V
- High current measurement resolution: 10 mA (0,01A)
- Low current consumption: 2,9Ah per month (4mA) @12V and 2,2Ah per month (3mA) @ 24V

Note when reading this, Europe uses , & . backwards to how we do in the US. They are not cheap and can be purchased on Ebay and Amazon. Not sure of Sergio is familar with this line or not, he might be able to chime in his opinion.

[Sergio]

First, that diagram is on the page linked to the Amazon item that you posted so I am assuming that is the meter you purchased.

Second, forget the "Load" on that diagram and focus on the left side where it says "DC 6.5-100V Power", that is your battery pack.

That is how it should be installed, next to the battery pack negative post.

The word "Load" refers to anything that is on the other side of the shunt (Controller, reducer, etc) and it really does not matter what it is since all You want to measure is the total current being drained from the batteries.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

If you want a volt/amp meter better suited for our carts, I'll suggest getting a Blue Sea 8248 meter. It is splashproof, 500 amps, comes with complete instructions and made in USA! I have one in mine and it has been flawless. You might get someone who knows basic electricity to help you install it