2009 Club Car Precedent...solenoid double click

[NoleFan4Ever]

The Yellow cable is the Controller Side supply. The Red is from the Battery. (And double check model year is an '09 as that would be an i2 cart and the electronics were in the back as part of the design change from '08.5)

[Sergio]

The Controller was moved to the back when the I2 style cart came out in 2008.5, the Serial Number would confirm.

It does sound like an MCOR throttle fault (not micro-switch related), did You already look under the floor board?

That space is accessible by the mice from under the cart and it makes a nice dark cave to nest and possible chew lots of wires.

2009 was also the year when Club Car played with the TPS throttle that was later swapped to MCORs, both the TPS and the harness conversion adapter connectors are prone to failure, specially if the cart is a PH serial number.

[robms]

Dumb question....test pins with harness unplugged or plugged up?

[robms]

Just now been able to get back in the cart. Have a real job.
This is just part time.

So I took out the MCOR and found some testing procedures. It is a MCOR II. And I was mistaken in the year model. This is a 2007. PQ07....

One the control side (the yellow and white wire), I’m getting around 6361 ohms when engaging throttle. Full throttle goes to 1119.

I’m assuming this is within spec? On the other plug, I have continuity when the pedal is pressed.

About to check the pins as someone suggested. Anymore suggestions, please send my way. At a total loss.

[robms]

If I put the cart in “tow” and press the accelerator, the solenoid clicks. Should this happen?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by robms

If I put the cart in “tow” and press the accelerator, the solenoid clicks. Should this happen?

Did you do this test?

And in "Tow" you should not get solenoid activation.

[robms]

I’m unable to do the test. When I press the accelerator, the micro switch clicks, the solenoid clicks, and then the solenoid clicks again. So it’s like the solenoid engages, then disengages within a 1 second time frame.

I tested pin 12 (I think) that’s coming from solenoid. It shows 50 volts when pedal not pressed. I press pedal and it drops to 0. Solenoid immediately clicks again and pin goes back up to 50.

[robms]

Checked those pins out. Just watched meter closely before solenoid clicked back off. Here ya go:

Pin 5: no pedal 39.7. Pedal pushed. 39.7
Pin 6. No pedal 0. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 8: mine is white and not brown. No pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 9: no pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 10: no pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by robms

Checked those pins out. Just watched meter closely before solenoid clicked back off. Here ya go:

Pin 5: no pedal 39.7. Pedal pushed. 39.7
Pin 6. No pedal 0. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 8: mine is white and not brown. No pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 9: no pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1
Pin 10: no pedal 50.1. Pedal pushed 50.1

Pin #12 is the low side for the solenoid. This is where the Neg comes from.

Pin #5 is ok as it only has to be >30v

All other pins are correct.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Take your DVM and place the Red probe on main pack Pos (+) and then Black probe on the Blue w/white stripe wire at the solenoid. With key On, Run/Tow in Run, press the pedal and see if you get 48v (or pack voltage) and then see if you lose it, both in conjunction with the sequential clicks.