HD cabel difference(s)

[shrpshtr]

All,

Looking at a couple of different cable sets. Can anyone help me understand any differences between 2ga silver soldered tipped cables and 2ga tinned-copper tipped cables? Is there a measurable difference in performance, durability, functionality? Thanks.

Shrp

[JohnnieB]

It is a matter of conductivity.

Tinned means Tin/Lead solder is used and Copper has a relative conductivity of 100 while Tin is 15 and Lead is 8. (Higher is better)

Silver solder is a blend of Silver (106), Copper (100) and Tin (15), and may contain Cadmium (23).

Different blends have different conductivities, but any silver solder blend is more conductive than the most conductive Tin/Lead solder blend.

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by shrpshtr

All,

Looking at a couple of different cable sets. Can anyone help me understand any differences between 2ga silver soldered tipped cables and 2ga tinned-copper tipped cables? Is there a measurable difference in performance, durability, functionality? Thanks.

Shrp

I'll attempt this.

I believe when you say "tipped cables" what you are really referring to is the "wire lug" or the "part" where the wire is connected to that is then bolted onto the battery. The cable itself isn't "soldered tipped" or "tinned-copper tipped" but the lugs they are inserted into are.

So, the difference between a "Standard Copper Lug" and a "Tinned Copper Lug" is #1--Both can be either crimped or soldered, OR crimped and soldered onto the connected wire. (so that's no difference) #2--The "Standard Copper Lug" has no protection from corrosion. The "Tinned Copper Lug", because of the tin platting, will help prevent corrosion from harsh conditions from the start. (Such as the gasses that occur from recharging batteries)

I hope this helps.

Dave

[shrpshtr]

Thanks JohnnieB. I figured the silver soldered cable was more conductive. What I am curious about is the impact of the conductivity that can be realized. For example, I'm in the technology industry so we see this a lot. A SAN drive that spins 15k rpm definitely (by all measureable metrics) provides more IOPS than a 10k rpm drive. There is no questioning that fact. But if I take a single 15k drive and replace it with a 10k drive, it's not very likely to be realized in most situations. Some will, but for the most part you'd be none the wiser. So, in the theoretical sense the silver soldered cable is going to be more conducive. Is it to a point where measurably less amperage and/or wattage would be delivered throughout the electrical system? If not, does it add to the longevity (which it sounds like it may) or other benefit of the cables?

Dave, you're correct. By tip, I mean connection. I didn't know that about the tin-coated copper connecter being more resistant to corrosion. Thanks. I've always heard soldered are better connections (again, more conducive) than crimped but that leads to the 1st question about impact realized in the electrical system.

Thanks again all.

shrp

[JohnnieB]

I prefer bare copper lugs (Heavy gauge Ring terminals) to tinned copper lugs because copper is more conductive than Tin/Lead solder, but Dave is right, tinning the copper makes it less susceptible to corrosion. On the other hand, there are other ways of protecting the bare copper and some of them enhance the conductivity of the metal to metal contact.

I use NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" by SanChem.

Amazon.com: 8 ounce Tube Cb Ham Radio NO OX ID A-Special Conductive Grease ALL Antenna Metal: Electronics

Amazon.com: 8 ounce Tube Cb Ham Radio NO OX ID A-Special Conductive Grease ALL Antenna Metal: Electronics

When the high current cables are new and are properly constructed by whatever construction method used (Tin/Lead Solder or Silver Solder, Crimped or Crimped & Soldered, or more exotic techniques), the differences are measurable, but may not be noticeable. We are talking about fractions of Milli-Ohms, but it is per connection, so they add up.

To put it into perspective, for each Milli-Ohm of resistance in the high current cables, connections and contact, 10W of energy per 100A of current flow, is being converted into heat rather than torque.

However, as the cables age and are exposed to the corrosive atmosphere in the battery compartment, their conductivity decreases as the corrosion migrates into every nook and cranny. If the lug end and the gap between the lug and the cable's jacket is sealed airtight, the invasion takes longer, but the corrosion will eventually win. The open air crimped type OEM cables probably need to be replaced every time the batteries are replaced, maybe sooner, while a set of cables with airtight ends may last a decade or more.

FWIW: I measured the Ohmic values of the silver soldered cables I got from Carts Unlimited (Scotty) before I installed them. Using an Ohmmeter with Kelvin clips (4-wire) that resolved to 0.001Ω with 5/4 rounding on the fourth decimal place, the only time the "1" in the third decimal place flickered was with the longest of the 2Ga cables, which meant the value was hovering on the brink of 0.0005Ω, which is essentially the intrinsic resistance of about 3' of 2Ga copper.

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I use NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" by SanChem. Amazon.com: 8 ounce Tube Cb Ham Radio NO OX ID A-Special Conductive Grease ALL Antenna Metal: Electronics

See.....you engineer guys use that fancy...."stuff". OTOH.....I just used Lithium grease.