After replacing solenoid in 92 club car, it ran without key, now not working at all

[Kmtortorici]

Today we replaced the solenoid in our 1992 electric club car. At first it seemed fine. The first test drive after replacing the solenoid went fine. Forward and reverse both worked. After tightening the solenoid down and tightening all cable connections, we did a second test ride. Put it in reverse and pressed pedal and it went, but if you let off the pedal and pushes it again, no movement. Turned the key on and off and again, would go in reverse the first time pedal was pushed but that was it. Then, after going forward, it wouldn't stop after releasing the pedal. It would engage and start going when the forward/reverse switch was moved, even without a key in the ignition! We took the seat off and watched as we moved the forward/reverse switch back and forth. Saw some sparks at the switch as well as in the vglide when the pedal was pressed. Now it is not working at all. No idea how we created such a problem replacing such a simple part.

[teecro]

Perhaps your replacement solenoid was defective or rated for the wrong voltage? A 12 volt or 36 volt solenoid would fail rather quickly being fed 48 volts.... Just a WAG

[Kmtortorici]

Unless the company sent me the wrong one, I ordered a 36V (the golf cart is definitely a 36V). When I contacted the company about the part being defective they said it sounds like a wiring issue, but we hooked it up exactly the way it was. The only thing we did was change out some corroded connector heads.

[scottyb]

The cart did not run as designed and you saw sparks at other components.
So I doubt this is a case of a defective replacement part.
Bench test the solenoid activation on 36v.
Establish whether it works or not independent of the cart.

[Kmtortorici]

So the solenoid a seem to be fine, but still can't figure out why it won't run. It was running until we replaced the solenoid. I ordered a new speed switch hoping that might help. Anyone know what would cause t to run even without a key in the ignition?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Kmtortorici

So the solenoid a seem to be fine, but still can't figure out why it won't run. It was running until we replaced the solenoid. I ordered a new speed switch hoping that might help. Anyone know what would cause t to run even without a key in the ignition?

There are a series of switches which need to be activated (turned on) before the solenoid will clicks closed. The cart will not run until the solenoid closes.
We can only assume that either the solenoid was welded or stuck closed or that the wiring was changed in such a way so the solenoid was energized constantly which could result in the solenoid becoming welded closed. Hope this helps

[JimmySnr]

I'm seeing the same issue in my 1990 36V Club Car.
I currently put the cart in Neutral whenever parked or the resister coil heats up and drains the batteries due to a faulty solenoid. This is present whether the key is on or off.
I noticed on the weekend that my Forward Reverse Switch is sparking when moved. I took it apart and cleaned but it is still sparking.
I'm waiting for some prices on a new Solenoid, new Forward Reverse Switch and new Speed Switch.

[JimmySnr]

Originally Posted by JimmySnr

I'm seeing the same issue in my 1990 36V Club Car.
I currently put the cart in Neutral whenever parked or the resister coil heats up and drains the batteries due to a faulty solenoid. This is present whether the key is on or off.
I noticed on the weekend that my Forward Reverse Switch is sparking when moved. I took it apart and cleaned but it is still sparking.
I'm waiting for some prices on a new Solenoid, new Forward Reverse Switch and new Speed Switch.

I replaced the solenoid being careful not to over tighten the posts as that can cause internal damage. The solenoid is working fine, the resistor coil isn't heating up when stationary and the gear switch isn't sparking anymore. 👍👍



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JimmySnr]

Originally Posted by JimmySnr

I replaced the solenoid being careful not to over tighten the posts as that can cause internal damage. The solenoid is working fine, the resistor coil isn't heating up when stationary and the gear switch isn't sparking anymore. 👍👍



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just found one more fault. Should be an easy fix. The vglide wiper doesn't always go right back when the accelerator is released so it holds the micro switch on and keeps the solenoid on. Possibly this is what caused the first one to weld.
Need to see if I can tighten the arm from the pedal to vglide when I get a chance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[scottyb]

YEs, this was an issue for both of these carts. The gas was on even when the pedal was up because it was mis-adjusted or Vglide contacts welded (common problem) this lead to the cart being on all the time which caused the F&R to spark when shifted and the solenoid to fry. Glad you got it fixed

The Vglide contacts can be block sanded to a resurface them if pitting is hanging up the wiper arm. Also you may need to adjust the linkage to ensure the wiper arm goes all the way back to zero.