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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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12-05-2016, 06:45 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,506
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1990 48v Conversion Questions
Have a friend with a 1990 36v ds. Batteries recently died so he bought new 8v batteries and 48v solenoid to replace them. This cart has the old toaster coils and a single solenoid, no computer or controllers. The cart wants to creep on its own when its placed in forward or reverse without the throttle pedal being pressed and even with the key in the on or off position, doesn't matter. There is some pretty good arcing occurring at the FNR switch. Will a bad FNR switch cause this? I've traced the 48v supply from the charge port to the key switch back to the micro switch at the FNR switch then down to the solenoid. with that wire off the solenoid I get 48v. When I put it on the solenoid I get a funky reading around 11v. Also this new 48v solenoid on the 2 posts for the Coil 1 side is marked (I) and the other is marked (S). The 48v yellow wire from the key switch / fnr micro switch is on the terminal marked (S). The terminal marked (I) has the green wire which goes into the v-glide throttle assembly. The big posts on the solenoid are also 2 different colors, one is silver and one is a bronze/goldish looking color. don't know if those matter they usually don't on solenoids, the wire on the goldish color post is the white wire that come from the fnr switch for reverse. I never hear the solenoid click. Could the wiper and contacts in the vglide be dirty or bad? Or the micro switch in the v-glide? Any input would be appreciated. Also is there a heavy duty replacement FNR switch available for this cart? His has 5 wire connections on the back most the ones ive found have 4. or only 2 with a bunch of small wires coming out...
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12-05-2016, 06:47 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,506
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
Heres a picture of the FNR switch in the cart and photo of what the replacement looks like. Anyone know of a Heavy Duty one that will work for his cart? Like I said theres 5 Connections for larger wires then a single micro switch with 2 wires...
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12-05-2016, 06:58 PM | #3 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
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12-05-2016, 07:05 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,506
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
The cart is wired just as this diagram shows. No wires from the FNR switch or the vglide have been moved or removed. Only thing different is the batteries and the solenoid. The reverse buzzer is also removed. The cart has been sitting with bad batteries since march or so. New 8v batteries installed just this week. Pack voltage reads 51v. He lives directly across the beach from the ocean and keeps it in the back yard. I don't know is the salt air has anything to do with it...
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12-05-2016, 07:15 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Quad cities
Posts: 334
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
The solenoid is probably causing the issue i is for ignition s is for starter when you energize the s terminal it c loses the solenoid sending power tru the i terminal on a engine application.The rea s on they do this is on like a ford vehicle it powers the i terminal to retard the timing to get motor started.For a test put the 36 volt solenoid back on it and try it .It might not last but a test to see if it creeps.
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12-05-2016, 07:55 PM | #6 |
Old Sky Soldier
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,881
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
Wouldn't that be a solenoid for a starter? Not to be used for on all the time.
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12-05-2016, 08:08 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
You may have blown up at least one of the micro-switches by now...
I am not sure where You guys found that solenoid, but it does appear to be an antique vintage automobile solenoid. The "S" terminal is for the coil +12v, the negative for the coil is on the solenoid body. The "I" terminal was an auxiliary contact that provided +12v output when the solenoid closed to old point type distributors (full power to the coil as it normally has a resistor in series). You can try powering the solenoid by using +12v between "S" and the solenoid body. You can also see the green patina on the FNR where the contacts are supposed to produce a low resistance current path. |
12-05-2016, 09:11 PM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,506
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
This is the same one as he got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252514633192 only difference is the larger posts have 2 different colors.
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12-08-2016, 05:16 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,506
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
After testing all the micro switches and electrical, everything looked good and right. Removed the new 48v solenoid and replaced it with his old 36v solenoid. Worked fine, no issues, no arcing! Not sure how long the 36v coil in the solenoid will tolerate the 48v. He ordering another 48v solenoid and gonna use this one until new one arrives.
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12-08-2016, 06:58 PM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: 1990 48v Conversion Questions
Hopefully he ordered the new Solenoid from a different vendor and not the same wrong type.
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