Solenoid Continuity Question Please

[konakid]

I really appreciate all the feedbac. It is all very interesting and informative, and would even be enjoyable if it wasn't my cart. :)

First - there is no solenoid click - that's the problem. There is a relay in this circuit next to the controller and solenoid, but I'm not sure what it is a relay for - and the relay is clicking. However, I wanted to keep this topic focused on this solenoid continuity issue, because I'm hoping that may be the problem.

The discussion about resistance, testing, etc. does make some sense to me. So, hopefully I am doing all this testing right with my multi-meter. I am a newbie to this stuff.

So, here's some pics - worth a thousand words right? :) These are the two solenoids in question. When I attach the clips directly to one another, I believe I have continuity. When I clip to each small terminal, I don't believe I have continuity. I get the same message when I use the buzzer "thingy."

If this is in fact the case, and there is no continuity between the small terminals - then I have a bad coil in both solenoids - correct??? I assume that would explain everything. So, I hope it is.

[Sergio]

Both of those solenoids are bad, the 0L on the meter means Open Line.

Make sure You have not tried testing those 48v Solenoids by applying the Full pack voltage +72v directly to the coils, that would definitely burn them.

[radioman]

The pixs indicate a properly working meter and an open coil.

[cgtech]

The other small 24v relay is what they call the "walkaway circuit". I think it allows the cart to try to stop itself if you got off without setting brake, and the cart started rolling.

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The other small 24v relay is what they call the "walkaway circuit". I think it allows the cart to try to stop itself if you got off without setting brake, and the cart started rolling.

Makes sense CG - if brake isn't set and on a hill, if it starts rolling a beeper goes off and the motor engages (or stays engaged) to keep it from free wheeling away.

Do you agree - bad coil in both solenoids? In any case, I would assume my next move should probably be a new solenoid?

[cgtech]

I'm not familiar the function of that meter, but all signs seem to point to solenoid. And I'm betting that 48v solenoid is likely correct. Ezgo likes using solenoids with different voltage than pack voltage, 48v RXV uses 36v solenoid. And with 48v solenoid availability in the Ezgo parts bin, I wouldn't be surprised. The 72v AC TXT we just got uses a 48v Trombetta solenoid.

[konakid]

Thanks everyone - I just ordered that solenoid through Walmart - believe it or not. Their site said they can get it here (Hawaii) the day after tomorrow. I'll believe it when/if I see it.

I couldn't find anyplace in Hawaii that had it. Amazon wouldn't ship it here quickly (or else was expensive). And everyone I tried on the Mainland have already closed.

I'll update when I get it installed.

[harriswallace]

I don't have the same cart as you but I do have the Curtis 1238 controller on 72volts and my solenoid is 48 volts. Gigavac GV200-QA EV Contactor - 4000 Amps Max - 48 Volt External Economizer PWM. Glad you found your part and you can get it so soon hope this is your fix.

[ThreeCW]

konakid,

1) When testing with your multi-meter, it is a best practice to have your posts clean and place your test leads directly on each post of your solenoid and not on the nut. It may not make much difference to your results but then again it could skew your results. I was at a seminar at a local battery shop and the technician said to take batter voltage readings directly on the lead when possible ... and avoid readings on stainless steel posts or nuts.

2) You might also want to check the functioning of your multi-meter. If your have a resistor of a known value, you can check the calibration / accuracy / function of your meter with it. Some erroneous results have been posted on the BGW forum in the past due to a poorly calibrated meter or a bad battery in a meter.

3) When you get the new solenoid and before you install it, make sure to check and record the coil resistance for future troubleshooting / comparison purposes.

4) Wishing you luck with your new solenoid … let us know how you make out.

[konakid]

Originally Posted by ThreeCW

konakid,

1) When testing with your multi-meter, it is a best practice to have your posts clean and place your test leads directly on each post of your solenoid and not on the nut. It may not make much difference to your results but then again it could skew your results. I was at a seminar at a local battery shop and the technician said to take batter voltage readings directly on the lead when possible ... and avoid readings on stainless steel posts or nuts.

2) You might also want to check the functioning of your multi-meter. If your have a resistor of a known value, you can check the calibration / accuracy / function of your meter with it. Some erroneous results have been posted on the BGW forum in the past due to a poorly calibrated meter or a bad battery in a meter.

3) When you get the new solenoid and before you install it, make sure to check and record the coil resistance for future troubleshooting / comparison purposes.

4) Wishing you luck with your new solenoid … let us know how you make out.

I appreciate the suggestions and always learn a lot when posting/asking stuff here. I did learn that even touching the leads (the "probes," not the clips) to each other and on terminals, it gave me all sorts of varying readings. So I did realize that a good contact is imperative when doing resistance testing. I did it several times and several ways in order to assure the readings were accurate and repeatable.

I'm curious to see what the readings are on the new solenoid. But more curious as to what happens when I turn on the key.