2014 CC Precedent - New Batteries, No Drive

[BossioBuggy]

Yesterday, I purchased a new pack of US Batteries (6x8V) for my 2014 Club Car Precedent. Prior to this, the cart sat dead for 4 months with completely discharged batteries. (That’s a different story)

I checked the voltage of every battery prior to installation, took a picture of the pack set-up and hooked everything back up exactly as it was before, while the cart was in tow position.

Prior to the batteries running dead and sitting, the cart ran perfectly! The cart is lifted with larger tires and a light kit (headlight and blinkers). These were all installed professionally, prior to purchasing the cart from a dealer 4 years ago.

Now, the issue that I’m having and hoping that someone can help me with is:

1. The cart will not drive.
2. The reverse buzzer will not buzz.
3. The solenoid does not click when the throttle is depressed.
4. Oddly enough, the headlights and tail lights work, but the blinkers/hazards don’t. (This is a tertiary concern, only listed as a possible symptom of root cause)

The charger (E.R.I.C.) is working just fine. The headlight and tail lights function properly and the ignition switch seems to be functioning properly.

I tested the solenoid based on previous posts that I’ve read and it seems okay. I have continuity and 0.0 ohms resistance across the small blade posts and 0V when the throttle is depressed with the key switched on, in Run position and the F/R toggle in Forward position. (This part confuses me, but...) From most negative battery terminal to each large post (tested individually) I’m reading 51.7V and no continuity across them. Is there further testing that I can do with the solenoid aside from jumping the large posts? Should I focus my attention elsewhere?

I’m stumped. Thanks in advance for any help!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by BossioBuggy

-snip-
I have continuity and 0.0 ohms resistance across the small blade posts

You should have ~100+ ohms on that activation coil....

[NoleFan4Ever]

Solenoid Testing:
(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed until you hear the MS click)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input. Check the Run/Tow switch and the Key switch for this permissive)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance (~100 ohms), but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it. If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing and you should hear it click.
3- Now with the solenoid closed in, place your DVM across the 2 large posts and you should read 0vdc.

[BossioBuggy]

NoleFan thank you!

I will give that a shot in the morning and post my findings! 🤙🏼

[BossioBuggy]

NoleFan4Ever - It looks like I’ve lost Neg input. Getting 0.4V at the Blue/White small wire.

Where should I go from here?

Also, I get 51.1V Pos input at both the solid blue and Blue\white. Is this normal?

Thanks!

[movin-on]

There is a 15a blade fuse near the controller...Worth a check...

[NoleFan4Ever]

The controller has to see the microswitch in the MCOR, the Fwd/Rev selected, the Run/Tow in Run, and the Key Switch On to satisfy the permissives and activate the Negative output to the Activation Coil.

Checking all your fuses is always a good start to any faults.

[BossioBuggy]

Sorry for the delay here, had a few things come up.

So, here is what I found:

1- Key switch is good.
2- F&R Rocker switch is good.
3- Run/Tow switch is good.
4- MCOR (I have a MCOR 4) is good, with consistent continuity over two pin connector when switch activated and ranging between 1100-6800 ohms across white and yellow pins with throttle input.
5- Positive input on solenoid is good at solid blue (50.4V)
6- Negative input on solenoid has been lost.
7- Still no reverse buzzer, blinkers, or brake lights.
8- Tail lights and headlights are okay.
9- All fuses are good! 😁🤙🏼

I’m thinking all of this points to controller?

[WalterM6]

Check the charger interlock.

[movin-on]

To check the charger interlock on an Eric cart just disconnect the light blue wire that comes off the charger receptacle. Follow it to a bullet connector in the main harness and disconnect it...That will disable the charger interlock...The light blue wire connects to pin 5 on the controller...