CC precedent stops going 48v

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, the issue is that both the IQ and the Excel controllers provide the negative to the speed sensor on pin #13 and the White ERIC controller uses that pin for the LIN bus.

Make sure you test the MCOR per my previous post as your old controller may be fine.

I just jumped the two wire connector in the harness side for the mcor as you described. The problem is there there. I was able to back it out of the garage and when I went to pull in it kicked back off.

I’ll get it back in and ground the wire from the controller connector and see if that fixes it.

[zeekracing]

I just grounded the speed sensor wire. It passes the roll test for the speed sensor now but the cart still has the same issue.

[Sergio]

That wiring change is to make sure the new Controller works wit the speed sensor.

I think the next step to narrow down the issue is to by-pass the Solenoid.

Remove the cable from the Solenoid to the Controller and put it on the other big post where the battery cable is connected.

That will jump the Solenoid and cause the cart to only run at 1/2 speed.

If the cart however does not stop working, that means the issue is the Solenoid contacts dropping under load.

If the cart behaves the same, then something else is causing the Controller to open the solenoid.

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That wiring change is to make sure the new Controller works wit the speed sensor.

I think the next step to narrow down the issue is to by-pass the Solenoid.

Remove the cable from the Solenoid to the Controller and put it on the other big post where the battery cable is connected.

That will jump the Solenoid and cause the cart to only run at 1/2 speed.

If the cart however does not stop working, that means the issue is the Solenoid contacts dropping under load.

If the cart behaves the same, then something else is causing the Controller to open the solenoid.

I just tried it. With both cables on one post of the solenoid I had a huge spark trying to put the battery cables back on. So I could not connect the batteries back. The key is off and in tow mode.

[zeekracing]

I’m thinking the motor must have a short in it.

[Sergio]

The spark may have just been the Controller capacitors charging without the benefit of the pre-charger resistor lowering the current during that process.

If You have an incandescent light bulb (40w-60w) you can use that as a resistor between the cable and the battery post for about 10 seconds before connecting the cable directly to the battery post.

You can just stand the light bulb base on the post and touch the threaded part of the light bulb with the cable.

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The spark may have just been the Controller capacitors charging without the benefit of the pre-charger resistor lowering the current during that process.

If You have an incandescent light bulb (40w-60w) you can use that as a resistor between the cable and the battery post for about 10 seconds before connecting the cable directly to the battery post.

You can just stand the light bulb base on the post and touch the threaded part of the light bulb with the cable.

I was a really big spark.
I’ll probably have to pull the motor now. I was taking the wires off of it and I had a second wrench on the lower nut but the stud still spun on one of the wires when I went to take the top nut off.

[zeekracing]

I had the pedal pushed with the cart in the air. The wheels won’t spin anymore. I think I hurt the motor spinning that stud. I was checking the motor post with a multi meter for voltage and the resistor on the solenoid started smoking and was hot.

[Sergio]

So You worked on the motor between fixing the speed sensor and jumping the Solenoid?

Smoke from the resistor unfortunately means the Controller is likely damaged now.

The cheapest option is to send the motor to PlumQuick for a Bandit upgrade as they will do a complete check, just pay the extra fee for new Motor studs.

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

So You worked on the motor between fixing the speed sensor and jumping the Solenoid?

Smoke from the resistor unfortunately means the Controller is likely damaged now.

The cheapest option is to send the motor to PlumQuick for a Bandit upgrade as they will do a complete check, just pay the extra fee for new Motor studs.

I messed with the motor after the speed sensor and trying to jump the solenoid.