Medalist Won't Run - Key Ignition or Foot Pedal Microswitch?

[KMurray936]

I have a '95 EZ Go Medalist that I have replaced all batteries on due to the old batteries not holding a charge. Cart ran normal before replacing batteries. Once charged, pack voltage is at 38v but cart will NOT run and solenoid does NOT click. After troubleshooting solenoid, I've found that the problem is somewhere else in the circuit. Voltage on battery side of solenoid is normal pack voltage (38v) and voltage on controller side is 7 volts.(If I touch the positive sides of solenoid together and press accelerator, wheels will turn in forward and reverse) I have bypassed the Reed Switch with no change. I tested voltage at the key ignition and it is 7 volts on one side at 2 volts on the other, with key on and off. Even when I take the electrical connectors off of the ignition and test the wires only, voltage is the same. So, is the problem with the ignition or could the problem be with the foot pedal microswitch? (I've read that if the foot pedal microswitch is bad, you won't get pack voltage at the ignition)
Where do I go from here??
Thanks in advance for your help with this!!! Much appreciated!!!

[camaroluvz28]

Bypassed the reed switch from the F&R micro to main positive? are you getting pack voltage to the other side of that same micro when in forward?

[KMurray936]

I only bypassed the Reed Switch in the charger port.

[camaroluvz28]

Are you getting 36-38 volts to the micro the reed switch wire goes to under the F&R cover? If yes are you getting the same on the other side of the micro when in forward?

[KMurray936]

I haven't checked F/R microswitch voltage yet but I will this afternoon. Do you suspect the F/R microswitch rather than the foot pedal microswitch? I'm curious as to why I'm not getting pack voltage at the key ignition.

[camaroluvz28]

Your 36 volts goes from the reed to that micro, then from that micro to the key switch...If you are getting 36 volts across that micro but not to the key switch the blue wire from that micro is either cut or not attached, if your not getting 36 across that micro...the micro is your issue...

[KMurray936]

Thanks for that info, that makes sense. When I bypassed the charger port reed switch, I connected the red wire to the white wire. I've read elsewhere that you should run a new wire to the + battery terminal and connect to the red wire. Does this matter?

[meimk]

As long as the red wire supplies pack + voltage to the microswitch at the Fwd/Rvs it really doesn't much matter where it comes from. The point of the reed switch is to prevent people from driving away with the charger DC cord still plugged into the cart. Lots of folks get by just fine without it, but it sucks if someone else hops on your cart and tears up your charger because they were unaware.

https://buggiesgonewild.com/attachme...1&d=1510500965
I know it says TXT but your Medalist should be about the same.

[KMurray936]

I've used the wiring diagram and determined I have proper voltage going into and coming out of F/R switch and all the way into the controller. I'm not getting correct voltage coming out of the controller and that would explain why I have incorrect voltage on controller side of solenoid, foot pedal and ignition. There's also a faint burnt smell from the controller box. Unfortunately, I'm leaning toward the controller as the issue. Unless I'm missing something but it doesn't seem like there could be anything else causing the huge voltage drop across the controller box.

[camaroluvz28]

You said the solenoid does not click? if that is the case the problem is BEFORE voltage ever reaches the controller... disconnect the wire going from solenoid to controller and try hitting pedal with key switch on...does solenoid click?