Is my spindle bent?

[Frankenbuggy]

Hi,
I'm new to the forum so thanks for the read

I have a new to me 2009 Precedent with a 6" A-ARM lift kit. It was a rental at the beach, so likely it has had a very rough life...

Since there was rust and bushings were missing, I replaced the bushings and replaced the ball (heim) joints. When I went to do the alignment, I noticed that the distance from the ball joint to the tire is greater on the passenger side VS the driver side (pictures attached). Ruler used is 1/2" wide and there is a gap on passenger side but it won't fit completely on the driver side.

So maybe this is a stupid question, but, does this mean the driver side spindle is bent?

Also, the Driver side upper A-ARM will move a bit front-to-back even with new bushings (this is with the shock and spindle disconnected). The passenger side is pretty tight. Not sure how this happens...maybe the upper A-ARM is damaged too?

would appreciate any thoughts on this. I'm guessing the right move is to just get a new lift kit since I don't know who made this one (?)

Thanks!!!

[CCNorth]

Welcome to the forum!

I'm not sure that one measurement can tell you very much, at this point. If the tire pressure is unequal that could give you a bad measurement as well as the camber being incorrect.

It's always difficult to tell from photos, but it appears your tires are toed out, not in.

It would be a shame to replace the lift kit only to find it's a bent a-arm. From other posts on this forum I understand that the good name brand lift kits are on backorder - 6 weeks or longer.

I have a long thread about alignment issues. My cart does not have the same type lift as yours but the alignment principals are the same. Also, there is information about checking for a bent spindle and a-arm.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=171370

Hope this helps you

[Down South]

I did a bit of work on your pics so I didn't have to look at them sideways.







I'd try to find out why or what is causing the slack that you have with the upper A-arm. You say it's front to back? Can you tighten that bolt more to remove the slack?
I'd do the alignment and if it aligns good, I wouldn't worry about the difference between the measurements from side to side.
I do admit it is strange. I just looked at mine which has the same style of lift and it looks even from side to side.
It is possible the spindle is bent. This is a long shot. Since this was a rental, I wonder if they installed a wheel spacer on the passenger side for a rub problem and didn't install one on the drivers side?

BTW, that looks like a name brand lift.

[rowlands57]

My experience in this relates to tie-rods in vehicles so take it for what it's worth. Do you have the same amount of thread extending from the lock nuts on both sides? Adjusting those to equal lengths should normalize the gap on both sides if they are the same as automotive tie-rods. Perhaps adjust that first and then proceed to the alignment?

[Frankenbuggy]

CC: just read your saga. A ton of great info there (which I'll be using), and a great lesson in perseverance! I'm subscribed to your thread for future updates.

DownSouth: thanks so much for rotating those pics...I didn't realize they were a mess until after they were uploaded. This is most helpful.

I'd try to find out why or what is causing the slack that you have with the upper A-arm. You say it's front to back? Can you tighten that bolt more to remove the slack?

I did try to tighten the bolt but that didn't change the slop. The old bushings were actually in ok shape, but I put the new ones in anyway, but both have the same result.
I'm having difficulty understanding how this could happen. Perhaps if it took a hit, the A-ARM mounting holes are now egg shaped instead of circular? Not sure how tightening like crazy wouldn't overcome it unless something is out of round or the bushing holes are just too big.

To your long-shot: There is no spacer on the passenger side. Wheels both directly mounted to (new) hubs.



Is there a way to tell the lift kit manufacturer? I thought perhaps it was an AllSports kit but when I sent these pictures and asked about a replacement spindle and A-ARM their tech came back quickly with 'that's not our kit'. I was pretty sure it is an AllSports kit because the rear lift has 2 U-bolts per side but I'm not sure what else to look at. I did replace the bolts through the heim joints with trade-5 cap screws and not socket bolts since they were easily had at the local ACE hardware store. Maybe this is why I was dismissed (?)

Anyway, in order to get to the root of the problem, complete disassembly may be in order. Following CC's path, I'll lay things out and try to measure and look for symmetry side to side.

Is the A-ARM wobble something others have seen? Is there a brass bushing kit or some other solution out there to guarantee mostly precise operation?



It might just be smarter, quicker and cheaper to just 'nuke' it with a new kit, but I have to try the cheap way first in the spirit of solving the puzzle...

Side notes: the new hubs click and pop when turning hard either way on pavement. Have others had this experience with new hubs? These are amazon specials of course.

Another side note: This cart even with new bushings tends to have a mind of it's own when driving down our very bumpy streets. Steering is loose, and the tie rod adjustment on the driver side has a wobble in it when trying to set toe. I figured I'd try to get the A-ARM and spindle fixed before focusing on the steering I was saving that for a new thread (although it is all related).

Appreciate any help

[Down South]

It looks about identical to this one but I don't know the manufacture.
https://www.ebay.com/i/233374047846?...AaArD1EALw_wcB
Your idea of taking it apart and comparing from side to side may be a good bet.

[Z7What]

Just a FYI, according to the All Sports instructions its states to run the upper heim all the way in and adjust the camber using the lower heim. If you cant get the correct camber adjusting the bottom, then you adjust the upper out some and use the lower to fine tune it. Your upper appears to be out a lot and lower in a lot.

This isn't going to solve the issue your having its more of a FYI.

Wayne

[Frankenbuggy]

Yep this must be someone else's kit then. No way camber will be ok with the the upper all the way in!
Thanks

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Frankenbuggy

Yep this must be someone else's kit then. No way camber will be ok with the the upper all the way in!
Thanks

Regardless of what brand it is, they all adjust the same. Not saying your upper will be all the way in. What im saying is that your upper is out alot and your lower is in alot. If you bring your upper in and lower out you would be able to keep the same alignment. The reason they suggest this is that the lower can be adjusted without removing the spindle bolt. In order to adjust the top you need to remove the spindle bolt.

Wayne

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by Frankenbuggy

CC: ...Side notes: the new hubs click and pop when turning hard either way on pavement. Have others had this experience with new hubs? These are amazon specials of course.

Another side note: This cart even with new bushings tends to have a mind of it's own when driving down our very bumpy streets. Steering is loose, and the tie rod adjustment on the driver side has a wobble in it when trying to set toe. I figured I'd try to get the A-ARM and spindle fixed before focusing on the steering I was saving that for a new thread (although it is all related).

Appreciate any help

If the hubs click and pop when turning, it indicates bad bearings. I'll assume you got new bearings when you put the new hubs on, but if not, that a possible cause of your whacky symmetry issue. Or possibly, the bearings are not seated properly.

The driving issue is most likely caused by the front tires being toed out, rather than in just a tick. See alignment threads.

Not sure I understand what you mean by "wobble" in the tie rod adjustment on the driver side. Is it loose, or bent?