Stray Ground

[rib33024]

when is the last time you washed your batteries with baking soda and water to get all the acid off everything??, the splatter from charging the batteries, with the acid on the batteries, and the batteries touching the frame will cause this, if the batteries are not clean

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Grinch

it's melted to the shaft with a rubber seal it could have easily worn through. but again it's not electrically connected to anything on the cart. the wires from the turn signals, lights and horn all lead to both positive and negative terminal blocks that are isolated electrically from vehicle. Both positive and negative power sources to the terminal blocks have been disconnected.

There are more then 4 wires inside that switch, are they part of a harness that might have another wire that is still connected to a + or - source? and all I can say is that is where my ground turned out to be when I was testing my cart. If you are not using it why not remove it from the column.

[Grinch]

Batteries cleaned 3 days ago. The only circuits on the cart are motor (vglide), charger and the voltage reducer. Everything that has power comes off the terminal bars (fused) that get 12v from the reducer and the reducer is no longer connected. I think I'm down to either batteries causing induction or a short in the motor. The guys at plum quick say it could be from the field. Tomorrow I will take the batteries all out, connect them in series on the ground and use a set of 4g jumper cables to power up the cart again.

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Grinch

Batteries cleaned 3 days ago. The only circuits on the cart are motor (vglide), charger and the voltage reducer. Everything that has power comes off the terminal bars (fused) that get 12v from the reducer and the reducer is no longer connected. I think I'm down to either batteries causing induction or a short in the motor. The guys at plum quick say it could be from the field. Tomorrow I will take the batteries all out, connect them in series on the ground and use a set of 4g jumper cables to power up the cart again.

If that's what you believe then why not just remove the battery and field leads to the motor then test before removing the batt's. If that is the problem you just saved your back.

[Grinch]

Originally Posted by scubabud

If that's what you believe then why not just remove the battery and field leads to the motor then test before removing the batt's. If that is the problem you just saved your back.

That would be easier except I'm not that smart. I don't know quite how to test it. Help me out, I have 4 wires running to the motor. Which do I pull and what is the test? I can figure out which one leads to the battery, but not sure what to do next. Someone suggested pulling the wire to the negative battery terminal and testing the continuity from the center of that terminal to the case of the motor?

[Grinch]

Originally Posted by scubabud

There are more then 4 wires inside that switch, are they part of a harness that might have another wire that is still connected to a + or - source? and all I can say is that is where my ground turned out to be when I was testing my cart. If you are not using it why not remove it from the column.

I have it disconnected now only to diagnose the voltage source. I'll connect it again when done. I need it for on street use.

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Grinch

That would be easier except I'm not that smart. I don't know quite how to test it. Help me out, I have 4 wires running to the motor. Which do I pull and what is the test? I can figure out which one leads to the battery, but not sure what to do next. Someone suggested pulling the wire to the negative battery terminal and testing the continuity from the center of that terminal to the case of the motor?

If you have been in contact with Plum Quick, ask them for their solution to test your motor, etc. before trying anything else. They'll walk you through it!

[Melonbuster]

Originally Posted by Grinch

That would be easier except I'm not that smart. I don't know quite how to test it. Help me out, I have 4 wires running to the motor. Which do I pull and what is the test? I can figure out which one leads to the battery, but not sure what to do next. Someone suggested pulling the wire to the negative battery terminal and testing the continuity from the center of that terminal to the case of the motor?

Just unhook all 4 and see if problem goes away. Besure to label them and not let them touch each other or anything else. If it goes away its the motor. If it doesn't it's something else.

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Melonbuster

Just unhook all 4 and see if problem goes away. Besure to label them and not let them touch each other or anything else. If it goes away its the motor. If it doesn't it's something else.

A bit of caution on two counts before you attempt this. First remove the main Positive cable from your pack, then the Negative cable from your pack before you remove the other leads off the motor. Also make sure you use 2 wrenches on the motor lugs, one to hold the retaining nut so it doesn't twist and the other to remove the top nut off of each motor cable. Label and cover the cables first before you re-attach the main Pos and Neg cables to your pack. Plumquick has a sequence for this as well.

[glowsnyder]

Im getting +17.5 volts from the frame to the battery ground. Took off every wire from the battery pack + and ended up taking every wire off the battery negative post - still 17.5 volts. The only think I can conclude is there is stray voltage from the battery pack. Going to clean all the batteries off and if that doesn't work, forget about it. Amperage doesn't seem appreciable or even present.