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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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11-26-2017, 08:19 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1
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2000-2008 Ezgo pds loss of power
Have an older 2000-2008 Ezgo PDS. We have a new controller as well as a new stock motor. Batteries are interstate and are about 1 year old. Problem we are having is twofold. 1st problem is it only lasts about an hour and seems to just die out. Not real sure about what is realistically expected but it would seem to me it should at least last through a round of golf. 2nd problem. With 4 guys and gear it periodically dies. Battery gauge can show a good charge and it will slowly die. If you let it sit for about 20 minutes it’s good to go again.
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11-27-2017, 10:36 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: fletcher,nc
Posts: 601
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Re: 2000-2008 Ezgo pds loss of power
get a digital meter and find out what the ACTUAL voltage is-the bar meter is a joke...36v cart should be between 38-39v 12 hrs after full charge...i suspect you are not getting much of a charge-are the batteries topped up with distilled water? no plates should be exposed-ever...
water should be 1/4" above the plates(roughly)to keep from excessive spillage during charging... |
11-27-2017, 01:40 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: San Diego Ca.
Posts: 289
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Re: 2000-2008 Ezgo pds loss of power
Newbie myself, so i never give any actual repair advice ! .
i'm just trying to Give-back to the forum by copy and pasting some of the easier stuff so the BGW A-Team can have a little break on the simple stuff. I see this is your first post, so if your new to carts and been wondering at all about batteries...., i have been working on a battery info folder from all the gathered info available here on the forum for myself and to use on the forum . . its not done but heres what i have so far There are a number of things that make you think "the batteries are good", only to find the batteries are bad when tested properly . . Always the first part of testing a battery and battery pack is Charging and Checking . You will definitely need a volt meter to test them properly and tell whats going on ... . But the First thing you need to do is check to make sure all your battery cable connections are good. Connections and cables that are severely corroded, burnt, brittle or stiff are pretty much toast and need to be replaced. Give them a good pull and twist to make sure they are not loose or better yet take them off ONE AT A TIME,. clean the connection and the battery terminal post and put it right back on. Taking them off and cleaning them ensures 2 things....You will know the cable ends and connection is good . Place the highest amp draw cable on the post first, so that it has the most intimate contact with the battery post terminal. There is also an abundance of forum cart questions that can be tracked back to a cart that is miss-wired so review the cable routing and that the main positive and negitves cables are hooked up at the right place , If you decide to skip the above section , you could very well be wasting your time testing anything . and end up buying some very expensive parts you didn't need because the real problem was something as simple as above . Charge batteries to full with charger, then do not drive it and let batteries sit without a charger hooked up for 12 hrs. The " Whole Battery Pack" reading in good condition should read 2.122 volts per "cell" with the formula below / regardless off batteries types ( 6v/8v/12v ) Example for a 36 volt system : 36 volt systems have 3 cells per battery times 6 batteries / so 3 x 6 x 2.122 = 38.2 volts . Or use the state of charge (SoC) chart below in the thumbnails . compare your actual voltage readings to determine the health of your battery pack . And just becouse you may have a good reading at this point , doesnt mean you have a healthy battery pack , keep testing with all of the next steps. . Check the voltage of each battery ... since they are in series, you will not have to disconnect them ... they can easily be checked individually while cabled up in your cart . Voltage on a fully charged "Single Battery" in good condition will read 2.122 volts per "cell" (same as above) / regardless of battery type, ( 6v/8v/12v ) Example for a 36 volt system : 6 volt battery has 3 "cells" / so 3 cells times 2.122 = 6.37 volts per battery . Or use the SoC chart below in the thumbnails . You will also need to keep track and record your individual battery voltage readings to compare to each other . Individual battery voltages in a battery pack should not range greater "FROM EACH OTHER" (highest reading to lowest reading) more than 0.15 volts for 6 volt batteries or 0.22 volts for 12 volt batteries." .( see Charging Section below under the " "Equalizing should be performed " if over/under the limits ) Most people dont have or want a hydrometer , but if you buy one / Get the ones with the needle type (not floating balls) In both voltage and specific gravity readings, consistency among cells and among batteries is important. A lead acid battery cell is fully charged with a specific gravity of 1.277 or higher at 80° F. For temperature adjustments, get a specific gravity reading and adjust to temperature by adding .004 for every 10° F above 80° F and subtracting .004 for every 10° F below 80° . But by Far the LOAD TESTING is the most important test. Batteries can have a good surface charge reading, but fail under load. . Use a Volt meter to show the" Whole pack voltage" reduced reading under load. This is an important feature to monitor. These lower readings are actually a load test reading of the whole pack. The meter should go right back up when the load is removed A healthy battery pack under full load (full pedal) should never read lower than 1 battery removed from the pack. Examples: 30v for a 36v.pack../ . and... 40v for a 48v pack.... ect' . . If you have a handheld load tester for your battery type, then you can use that on each battery separately. . Rule the thumb for batteries is ..... If the cart is starting to move, but has very poor performance, or quits . It's probably (Again Probably) not a Motor, controller or solenoid issue. More often it is the forward & reverse switch or the batteries are falling off due to one or more of the above conditions . Even just "One battery" that is failing under load could be the problem, that's all it takes . So when "YOU" decide to replace batteries due to performance or inconvenience is up to you . . Also have a folder started for charging and maintenance if you'd like it |
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