2002 ezgo txt shuttle 6s not moving

[cgtech]

You could keep your mechanical switch in place, and use it's reverse microswitch to activate your switching relays (which will be doing all the "heavy lifting"). The shuttle has a pretty long lever, which makes shifting pretty easy, so not much issue with "hard to shift" on those models.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Classifiedinfo

JohnnieB,

So this essentially removes the manual FNR switch? I don't need to buy that plus the reversing contactor, correct?

Thanks,

CI

Originally Posted by orangeman6

I’m definitely no johnnieB, but yes, the contactor replaces the f/r switch. You do not need both.

Here is what it looks like: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/reversing-contactors.html

The rocker switch is installed where the shift lever used to be.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cgtech

You could keep your mechanical switch in place, and use it's reverse microswitch to activate your switching relays (which will be doing all the "heavy lifting"). The shuttle has a pretty long lever, which makes shifting pretty easy, so not much issue with "hard to shift" on those models.

Does the shift lever arrangement oh the shuttle precluded a rocker or toggle switch from being installed in that location.

Whatever is used to control the contactors, the length of the high current path in a shuttle is reduced by about 20', which is about 50 Watts of power loss per 100A of current flow.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Does the shift lever arrangement oh the shuttle precluded a rocker or toggle switch from being installed in that location.

Whatever is used to control the contactors, the length of the high current path in a shuttle is reduced by about 20', which is about 50 Watts of power loss per 100A of current flow.

No, but it is a curved "area", not impossible, but a "odd shape". Both of our ideas include moving the big wires back to the controller/battery area. I just suggested keeping the lever because I always try to think of "who is used to using this everyday, and will not be happy with change of program". I get that this may not include habits of this newer owner. These carts are typically 'heavy duty' carts. Using all three of the (com, No, Nc) terminals already offered would keep the lever style intact .

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cgtech

No, but it is a curved "area", not impossible, but a "odd shape". Both of our ideas include moving the big wires back to the controller/battery area. I just suggested keeping the lever because I always try to think of "who is used to using this everyday, and will not be happy with change of program". I get that this may not include habits of this newer owner. These carts are typically 'heavy duty' carts. Using all three of the (com, No, Nc) terminals already offered would keep the lever style intact .

Thanks for the info. I've never seen one of these carts up close and wasn't aware the lever was in a curved area.

[cgtech]

The front seat is 2 buckets with a console in the middle. Console has F&R lever and e-brake handle.

Upon further research, not all of them were like this, but all the ones with the HD "juice" brakes I have seen we're like this.

[Classifiedinfo]

Hi Everyone,

I'm getting closer to figuring this out. I swapped out the F&R Switch but it's still not running right. When I stepped on the pedal, the solenoid clicks, and the cart starts full throttle. When I push down the peddle all the way, it stops. I think I have some cables backwards some where but can't figure it out. What did I wire wrong?

Here's the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60VcqjZ5tGw

[Classifiedinfo]

anyone?

[Classifiedinfo]

Done with this stupid thing. I've replaced the F&R switch, the ITS, and break solenoid. Nothing makes it work. Selling it!