98 DS Regen2 Wiring Harness Issue

[Smithcastle]

Hello there!

I'm troubleshooting an apparent wiring issue and looking for advice. I've installed a new Alltrax 500A controller and 400A solenoid. I do NOT have pack voltage on pins 1 and 2 with the 23 pin connector disconnected from the controller for testing. I did positively test pack power on pin 3 when pressing the foot switch.

The problem is the controller doesn't power up unless the cart rolls or is connected via USB. Alltrax has confirmed power is necessary on pins 1 & 2, and three when you press the go pedal.

I've traced the suspect wires back to what appears to be a factory wiring harness splice of four wires to three! I see two orange and white, Red and Blue wires on one side of the link and one red, blue and red/white stripe on the other side.

Before I tear into the stock harness and this splice apart for a suspected short. Does anyone else have experience with no power on pin locations 1 & 2 on the 23 pin connector?

Thanks for any information you can share.

[Sergio]

The OBC on your cart powers the entire cart logic, the newer ones only power the Controller interlock.

The source of power for those two pins is the OBC Blue wire.

First check the fuse on the OBC Red/White wire to make sure it is good.

If the fuse is OK, check that You do get +48v on the harness side of the fuse on the Red/White wire.

If You have power on the Red/White wire at the OBC than the OBC has failed.

You can place a jumper on the OBC 6-pin connector harness side between the White and the Blue wires.

If the cart works fine You will need to finish the OBC by-pass and purchase a smart charger that does not need the OBC to operate.

[Smithcastle]

Greeting Sergio and thank you for your reply and the information.

I have verified that the fuse is good and I do have full pack voltage on the red/wht wire to the OBC fuse connector.

Unfortunately when I jumper the white and blue wires bypassing on the harness side of the 6 pin connector going to the OBC the Alltrax still doesn’t power up with keyswitch on and footpedall pressed.

However, If I roll the cart the solenoid activates and the Alltrax powers up and the horn sounds. Presumably this is the runaway cart circuit off of the speed sensor.

Any other suggested troubleshooting steps are appreciated.

Thanks

[Fairtax4me]

This cart should have a tow/Run switch. The T/R switch gives power to the OBC on the White wire. OBC then gives power to the Solenoid, FnR switch, and controller pins 1&2.
If you have Solenoid activation and a reverse buzzer signal from the controller then the splice should be fine.

You should have at least 33V at the Pins 1, 2, 3, with key On, throttle pressed. For the controller to move the cart you also need F or R command from the FnR switch on pins 4 or 5.

[Sergio]

If You still not getting power to pins 1 and 2 then the issue does appear to be that sonic weld wiring junction you identified.

Cut it off and use a close end cap to crimp the wires together.

[Smithcastle]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You still not getting power to pins 1 and 2 then the issue does appear to be that sonic weld wiring junction you identified.

Cut it off and use a close end cap to crimp the wires together.

I’m able to solder and heat shrink things. So to be sure, cut the sonic weld and solder all seven wires together? Or will I be able to tell which wires are connected though to each in the weld?

The orange/white stripe wire that was connected to the Regen solenoid does get full pack voltage and is in that same sonic weld bundle. With the Alltrax SRX48500 it says just tape the two wires up. Instead, can I just use it to splice into the red and orange/white stripe wires that don’t have voltage?

I appreciate the insight and experience.


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[Smithcastle]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

This cart should have a tow/Run switch. The T/R switch gives power to the OBC on the White wire. OBC then gives power to the Solenoid, FnR switch, and controller pins 1&2.
If you have Solenoid activation and a reverse buzzer signal from the controller then the splice should be fine.

You should have at least 33V at the Pins 1, 2, 3, with key On, throttle pressed. For the controller to move the cart you also need F or R command from the FnR switch on pins 4 or 5.

Thanks for the input. It does have voltage 50+ on pin 3, just not 1 and 2. The Alltrax toolkit shows input on FnR switch as well.


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[Sergio]

By-passing the OBC driver on the Blue wire eliminates it being a source of limited current.

You are definitely powering that wire junction (sonic weld) but somehow not getting power to the Red and the Orange/White wires at Controller pin #1 and #2.

Unless those wires are broken somewhere, the sonic weld must have failed and You could lose other connections.

You can try soldering all those 7 wires together instead of crimping.

Edit: Actually just 6 wires since you don't need power to the old dynamic brake solenoid.

[Smithcastle]

Ok. So I've removed the factory sonic fusion splice and soldered all the wires together. I now have power on pins 1&2 in Run and 3 when the pedal is pressed. But the Alltrax controller still doesn't power up. Unless I roll the cart, or plug in the laptop via USB, then the controller powers up.

I'm at my wits end. When I hookup the alltrax toolkit It doesn't show keyswitch Input on, yet I have power from the keyswitch to the V-Glide.

What should I check next?

[Sergio]

In Your system the Key Switch input is Controller Pin #3 and it is activated by the pedal micro-switch.

I don't like that setup since the buzzer does not work when you put the FNR in Reverse, it only works after you press the pedal.

This came out on an older thread and an Alltrax Tech told us about another, non documented as far as I know, option for the key switch input.

It involves running a wire from the Key switch to Controller pin #6, here is the post:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1546961

That being said, the Controller should be powering up from pin #3 so You may want to call Alltrax tech support first, but the modification mentioned can still be made if You want the buzzer to go off as soon as put the FNR in Reverse.