Cart Stopped Dead Shortly After Alltrax Install

[BSPCsec]

2010 48v Precedent
Purchased used a week ago.

Had a hesitation on acceleration, MCOR replaced problem solved.

Installed Alltrax Xct48300-IQ. Cart ran fine for the day then just stopped dead while driving. Assumed batteries died so towed unit back (in tow mode) and hooked up to charger. Next morning cart would not move with no clicking at all from solenoid. Installed new solenoid and did not solve problem. Spent 1hr on the phone with Alltrax and after much troubleshooting Alltrax figured the controller was bad and they authorized a warranty replacement.

We put the stock controller back in assuming we would just drive it on that until the replacement came however we have the same problem. Cart does not move when pedal is pressed and no clicking from the new solenoid.

Looking for troubleshooting suggestions to rule out any additional problems before installing controller when replacement arrives.

[Reddawg454]

Where did you buy the MCOR? Cheap MCORs have a bad history of being bad on receipt.

[BSPCsec]

MCOR was purchased at our local Club Car dealer. Are you aware of a way to test it to make sure that hasn't failed? 🤷

[Sergio]

Does the Reverse buzzer make noise in Reverse?

If not the OBC is in lockout mode.

[BSPCsec]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Does the Reverse buzzer make noise in Reverse?

If not the OBC is in lockout mode.

The reverse buzzer is sounding.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Reddawg454

Where did you buy the MCOR? Cheap MCORs have a bad history of being bad on receipt.

The good MCORs are made in Mexico and have ITW Switches cast in the housing.

[Sergio]

The reverse buzzer working eliminates the FNR switch and the OBC, the next step would be to test the rest of the inputs the Controller needs before closing the Solenoid.

These tests are performed by probing the back of the Controller 16-pin connector while it is still plugged, they are not so easy due to the location of the Controller:

Pin #10 - KSI - Tan Wire +48v when KSI is ON

Pin #6 - Pedal Switch - Light Green +48v when pedal is pressed.

Pin #2 Throttle input - Yellow Wire 0.2v Pedal UP to 4.7v Pedal DOWN

[BSPCsec]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

The good MCORs are made in Mexico and have ITW Switches cast in the housing.

This is the one we purchased.

[BSPCsec]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The reverse buzzer working eliminates the FNR switch and the OBC, the next step would be to test the rest of the inputs the Controller needs before closing the Solenoid.

These tests are performed by probing the back of the Controller 16-pin connector while it is still plugged, they are not so easy due to the location of the Controller:

Pin #10 - KSI - Tan Wire +48v when KSI is ON

Pin #6 - Pedal Switch - Light Green +48v when pedal is pressed.

Pin #2 Throttle input - Yellow Wire 0.2v Pedal UP to 4.7v Pedal DOWN

Pin #10 has 50.8

Pin #6 has 0.1 pedal pressed

Pin #2 has 0.4 pedal up 4.6 pedal down

[Sergio]

It looks like the MCOR micro-switch failed or its wiring is damaged.

Remove the 2-pin connector from the MCOR and use a large paper clip or solid wire to jump the two pins on the harness connector.