Solenoid activation issue.

[Rolly72]

Need help please. Working on a 82 club car 36v for my daughter. Bought not running and sat for years. Replaced all the batteries but won’t move. I’ve checked all the obvious things. I can get the solenoids to click if I jump them off the battery. Cart will move while jumped if I press the micro switches with the exception of the 3 terminal one that has a green Wire going to the far right solenoid.

The other wire goes to what I assume is a buzzer. Also the the yellow wire on the switches that is jumped from switch to switch is unhooked. No idea where it belonged. Would that one 3 terminal micro switch cause the solenoids to not activate?

Also I wasn’t getting power to the key switch and noticed that the hot wire was going to the back of the charging port which seemed weird to me. I moved it to a hot wire for time being and switch seems to work. Where should it be? The other wire off switch is run to the f&r switch.

Thanks I’m advance.

[Bobbob]

Did you check out the stickies at the top of these posts. Look for Club Car wiring diagrams. Crash Test Dummy on post #19 has an excellent number of diagrams he posted for Club Car 1980-1983.5 at midpoint of 1983.5 wiring changed.

I think these will help you in tracking the wires down.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Budule]

its easy to get things crossed up....
and i think that one has a negative key switch...

[Rolly72]

Thank you guys. I found 2 bad micro switches and have them coming.

One thing I found strange is if I press them individually wheels turn but if I press them all at once nothing happens except solenoid clicks.
Hopefully that is due to a bad switch that I have coming.

I’ll have to put the switch wire back to the negative post but when it’s it was there I wasn’t getting power thru the switch. But that is before I replaced the f&r switch so maybe that is why.

Any idea where the yellow wire coming out of the switch box with the 5 micro switches in. It had a ring terminal and at the moment I have it to a negative post which seems to work.

[Mooncarter]

The solenoid on the far right is your main solenoid. That solenoid must be stuck closed or the cart would not run without it clicking.

And like Bodule said, that cart should have a negative key switch. I would check all the wiring closely. The diagrams are above and in the "Stickies."

[Rolly72]

Originally Posted by Budule

its easy to get things crossed up....
and i think that one has a negative key switch...

Looking at the wiring diagram I guess it was in the right place.

The yellow wire that comes off the 3 spade terminal that was unhooked i ran to a negative. looking at this it looks like it should have gone to a positive if I'm looking at it correctly.

Maybe this is why my reverse buzzer sounds when in forward instead of reverse?

[Sergio]

The key switch is negative and it goes to the FNR micro-switch then to all of the Solenoids through that daisy chain connection.

The entire Pedal box is positive.

The power comes from the FNR common pack positive connection to all of the micro-switches top terminals.

Each micro-switch N.O. terminal goes to a Solenoid coil.

The wire from pedal box to the reverse buzzer provides the positive to the buzzer.

The negative to the reverse buzzer is provided by the Motor S1->S2->pack negative connection when the FNR is in Reverse.

[Rolly72]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The key switch is negative and it goes to the FNR micro-switch then to all of the Solenoids through that daisy chain connection.

The entire Pedal box is positive.

The power comes from the FNR common pack positive connection to all of the micro-switches top terminals.

Each micro-switch N.O. terminal goes to a Solenoid coil.

The wire from pedal box to the reverse buzzer provides the positive to the buzzer.

The negative to the reverse buzzer is provided by the Motor S1->S2->pack negative connection when the FNR is in Reverse.

Thank you so much. looks like I have the key wire and wire from pedal box reversed. I'll get that swapped and see how things go.

[Rolly72]

Ok I’m at my end of my rope here. lol

82 36v club car

I’ve wired the car based on the wiring diagram including the negative key switch.

I’ve replaced all switches and all 5 solenoids.

I’ve got the switches out of the pedal box and when I
Press them one at a time cart goes. (Sometimes you have to push the wheel for it to move)

I can press the last four at the same time and cart moves.

If I press the main solenoid. (One with 3 spades) it clicks but nothing. It’s a duller click too. Also if I have the rest pushed and cart is moving, as soon as I push the main switch it kills them.

I’ve put a meter on them and this is what I see on the solenoids

38 volts on the all the small posts whether key on or not.

Big posts has 38 volts on the coil resistor side if forward and reverse switch is on except the mail solenoid (Key doesn’t have to be on) the
I get 38 volts on the other big posts when I push the corresponding switch. I however at no point get any voltage to the main solenoid not matter what I do.

Also, if I have the key switch off I get 38 volts on one side of the f&r micro switch and if push it I get 38volts on the other. If I turn key on I loose voltage all together on the f&r switch.

I have 38 volts on all 3 spades of the main solenoid switch with key off. If I press the switch the spade that goes to the solenoid drops to 0.


Please help. I’m about to loose my mind. Lol
Thank you.

[Rolly72]

Ok. Finally figured out my issue. I had the wire going to the main solenoid on the
No leg so when I pushed it it cut the power. I never looked at the markings and just assumed was my issue. I’ve been chasing this for days and knew was some stupid.