Put money into old cart or buy new?

[Andy4639]

You need a schematic for the cart and trace all the wiring out and make sure everything is like it should be. One component wired wrong makes for everything to be wrong. Check and double check.
Check all the cables for tightness and clean anything off that is not suppose to be there.

[MACKM]

Just an update. We purchased new batteries, resistor and diode. I cleaned up all the cables and replaced the ones that were too far gone. I reconnected everything, turned the key and a spark lit up the evening sky. It seems that the diode was creating a short across the small solenoid terminals. I observed the polarity of the diode and installed it as it was before with the stripe towards the negative side of the solenoid. That spark welded the throttle switch in the open state so I will be replacing that. I jumped out the switch after removing the diode and the solenoid still clicks but there is still no movement of the cart. Also, the 250 ohm resistor across the large terminals of the solenoid is too hot to even touch despite the key being in the off position all night. Today, I will be following the stickys to test out the controller and motor again in hopes of nailing down the faulty component. Thanks for all the help...

Goal: Riding this thing on Memorial Day Status: In Progress

[scottyb]

Two things...
The stripe on the diode must be on the + positive side of the activation circuit. You had it reversed. Likely you need a new peddle micro and diode.
The solenoid is likely welded closed as evidenced by the resistor remaining charged over night. Disconnect one side of the large posts and verify continuity = welded shut / failure.
Replace solenoid.

[MACKM]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Two things...
The stripe on the diode must be on the + positive side of the activation circuit. You had it reversed. Likely you need a new peddle micro and diode.
The solenoid is likely welded closed as evidenced by the resistor remaining charged over night. Disconnect one side of the large posts and verify continuity = welded shut / failure.
Replace solenoid.

Hmmm... That is exactly how the other diode was installed. I removed the diode and checked the solenoid for continuity. The two large posts are open until I apply power and then it goes closed. Solenoid seems okay. The peddle micro is indeed welded. I performed the motor continuity test this morning. With all the wires to the motor disconnected, I have continuity between A1 and A2 of the motor as well as S1 and S2 but not between any of the A and S posts. Does this confirm that the motor is okay or do I need to take it a step further by applying power directly to the motor to confirm it's good/bad state? Thanks again for the help.

[scottyb]

Sounds like the motor and solenoid are okay. The diode is definitely positive to the banded end.

[MACKM]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Sounds like the motor and solenoid are okay. The diode is definitely positive to the banded end.

Thanks bro for the help again. So if those two are good, I am back to the controller. I can't seem to find a good series of tests for the controller that I have. Everyone basically points to different color wires and mine are all black so it makes for a difficult process. I know it's getting power on the smaller wire from the peddle switch. It has a good ground. It's getting pack voltage on the large post and it seems to be passing it to the other post. I check for 0-5K input from the throttle switch and that is good althought with the pedal floored, it registers into the mid 6K. I can't seem to find the failure.

If the four motor posts are all positive, how does the motor receive a ground. Frame? If you or anyone can keep pointing me in directions, I will stay on this until dark every weekend?

[MACKM]

and just because I am officially desperate, at the F/R switch, there are three micro switches. There is not one wire that is attached to these switches. I ***umed that they had to do with back up sounder so I didn't give it any thought due to me not wanting any noise anyways. Grasping at straws.....

There is also a larger wire coming off of the F/R setup that is again not connected to anything. I fihured it is a ground for the horn.

[scottyb]

Sounds like the M/S have been bypassed?
Test for 36v+ at controller small spade terminal #1 when the peddle is depressed. If yes......

Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M- terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.

[MACKM]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Sounds like the M/S have been bypassed?
Test for 36v+ at controller small spade terminal #1 when the peddle is depressed. If yes......

Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M- terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.

I metered where you said and I get pack voltage on the B+ even with the pedal released. Of the four large posts on the controller, One is negative (M-) and I get pack voltage on the other three all the time with the pedal released or depressed.

[MACKM]

I installed a rebuilt controller today along with a new diode which I installed this time correctly. I also stole the micro switch from the back up beeper assembly to replace the switch from the throttle assembly that I welded in an earlier post. I replaced every single end to every cable and powered the beast up. The wheels turned!!! I took it for a test drive and maybe it's the new batteries or the higher output controller or both but she moves alot smoother now. Still creeps on a hill but I can stay clear of those.

Thanks to all who guided me through this ordeal. Your info was invaluable.

How much should I deplete the batteries before attempting a charge cycle? Is there any other things I should know about a new battery pack before signing off? Break in process?

Thanks again...

Goal: Riding this thing by Memorial Day Status: Completed