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Old 08-21-2011, 08:48 AM   #21
doclomlom
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

I replaced the solenoid and all is well again. No arcing and the resistor coils are nice and cool. Now I would like to know what happened! Did the solenoid cause the fire initially or did the fire in the switch cause the solenoid to go? At least I'm up and running again.

Thanks for your input guys!
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:40 AM   #22
shadowman
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

more than likely the soleniod caused your problems..............................
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:07 PM   #23
TN_53_F100
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

I have a similar problem on a 2002 36V club car (single solenoid unit with resister coils). When I hook up the batteries, all is well when in neutral. When I put it in forward, I smell something burning. I haven't identified where it is coming from. It does it with the accelerator pedal in the off (stopped) position. I would have thought that the circuit would have been open until the pedal is stepped on. Is that when the solenoid engages? When you push the pedal off zero?
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:28 PM   #24
89GatorClub
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

Quote:
Originally Posted by TN_53_F100 View Post
I have a similar problem on a 2002 36V club car (single solenoid unit with resister coils). When I hook up the batteries, all is well when in neutral. When I put it in forward, I smell something burning. I haven't identified where it is coming from. It does it with the accelerator pedal in the off (stopped) position. I would have thought that the circuit would have been open until the pedal is stepped on. Is that when the solenoid engages? When you push the pedal off zero?
Unless your solenoid is stuck closed
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:30 AM   #25
shadowman
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

Quote:
Originally Posted by TN_53_F100 View Post
I have a similar problem on a 2002 36V club car (single solenoid unit with resister coils). When I hook up the batteries, all is well when in neutral. When I put it in forward, I smell something burning. I haven't identified where it is coming from. It does it with the accelerator pedal in the off (stopped) position. I would have thought that the circuit would have been open until the pedal is stepped on. Is that when the solenoid engages? When you push the pedal off zero?
thats when it should engage but depending on whats going on it may be burnt in the engaged position.......so check the microswitch that activates it and solenoid itself if your unsure replace both...........by all means try and pinpoint where smell or heat is coming from.............it could be the resistor coils take the cover off them and see if any are getting hot or glowing red while cart is sitting...........if so that means they are getting voltage when they shouldn,t and is more than likely a bad solenoid..................................
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:22 AM   #26
doclomlom
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Default Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

Quote:
Originally Posted by TN_53_F100 View Post
I have a similar problem on a 2002 36V club car (single solenoid unit with resister coils). When I hook up the batteries, all is well when in neutral. When I put it in forward, I smell something burning. I haven't identified where it is coming from. It does it with the accelerator pedal in the off (stopped) position. I would have thought that the circuit would have been open until the pedal is stepped on. Is that when the solenoid engages? When you push the pedal off zero?
My experience would say start with the solenoid, that's what solved my problem. It didnt take long for the coils to heat up.

My 93 is running great after its repair last summer.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:31 AM   #27
TN_53_F100
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Cool Re: 93 CC 36v electrical fire, problems now

Thanks. I figured it was supposed to come on when I stepped on the pedal. I will definitely check the wiper contacts, solenoid and microswitch. I took the body off so I can have good visual access to everything. Hopefully I will be able to see where the heat is coming from. I don't have any loose connections at the motor, so that is good. This cart was used in a plant by a mechanical contractor and it is FILTHY. There is a very fine coating of dust/mud on everything. I'm going to wash the components that can stand it (motor, transaxle, resistors, etc) and try to blow off everything in the compartment under the seat. I took some resistance measurements at different points to see if anything was shorted to ground. Nothing like that is going on. Can someone post some Ohm readings that I should expect to see on the motor and at the resistors, and anywhere else I should be checking?
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