1994 36 volt controller CC won't go / update

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by kramsee

Using everybodys input and putting aside some of my stupidity for a few minutes....this is what I'm coming up with mentally....be ready to be impressed,...you're all great teachers.

My controller is apparently one of those with a High Input Safety DooDad ( made that last part up ). When I let off on the accelerator pedal easily, as you would when driving normally, at full off I get that high reading of 5.something something k going to the controller from the v pot. ( I only get 2.7 at full throttle when it's running and it does go up smoothly and runs fast as **** at the top end ). If I let the pedal slam back on it's own or pull back on it by hand after an easy release, even though I see absolutely no movement of the v pot arm, it goes to 0. It rests on the little bumper stopper thing which either way you do it.

So, apparently that high reading is telling the controller to shut down. Now either pulling and replacing a battery cable or using the ignition switch to turn off and on the power resets the controller?????????? and...depending on what the v pot is sending to the controller and that the controller actually reset, determines whether I run or not on the next attempt. And since it seems the longer and more times in a row that I attempt this, the less and less successful my attempts become because the controller gets pissed at me and becomes less responsive to my persistence. ( actually I assume it heats up or something because after letting it sit for awhile, it seems to become more responsive.)

Does this all sound good so far?

Now I'm thinking I have two options...........first would be preferably to figure out whats going on with the v pot. I checked the resistors and they all are very, very close to the resistance values listed in the parts manual. One question I do have is that the arm of the v pot at full on and off split the two copper plates at either end and not on the individual first or last plates. The bumper stop for full off is built into the v pot body so there's not much I can do for the low end anyhow. I have no idea why I get the reading that I do at low end or why pulling with a little pressure on the pedal resets the output to 0. THE ARM DOES NOT MOVE, I swear.

Number two option is I found rebuilt controllers for my cart that come with or without the High Input Safety DooDad......guess which one I'm thinking of buying!!!!


Does this all make sense. Thanks again.

Probably a bad pot

[kramsee]

First of all,.a big thumbs up and a mighty thank you to all of you for your, time, patience and willingness to share your wealth of knowledge.

Today we took a giant step towards having a running cart. For all of you that led me in the direction of the V Glide / pot, your brillance is outshined by no one.

Okay, now that I'm done kissing *** , I'll explain.

Today I came home from work and removed the throttle rod from the v glide and manipulated the arm in the V Glide by hand. I pushed it all the way to the off position and found that I can still not get it fully on the first copper pad without just a hair of it still touching the second pad. It's an aftermarket body and perhaps the stop bumper isn't exactly to manufacturers specs but I believe I can trim it up. Now here's where the good news comes in, I move the arm in the direction for acceleration and for some reason, when it's on the second pad, absolutely nothing happens but when it's about 3/4 of the way on the third pad, the solenoid clicks and when it's fully on the third pad, IT RUNS. Yea! And from there until the last pad,...it revs up quite nicely and smoothly to a good fast speed. Bringing it down to slow the acceleration, it performs just as well with exactly the same results at the same spots. I performed this over and over in reverse, forward, charger plugged in, charger unplugged....came inside for a sandwhich and a drink, went back out and repeated everything with the same results. I can now make my cart run at will. Now all I need to do is cut a hole in the seat and reach down and manipulate the V Glide by hand while driving. Just kidding.

I'm assuming that the microswitch should be kicking the solenoid in before it does or other wise that second copper pad and it's resistor are just expensive options for appearence sake. I'm thinking that since I'm feathering the speed of how fast I accelerate the V Glide bar very slowly from when the solenoid kicks in, that the ohm resistance is low enough to let the controller work but when I was blindly doing it from the accelerater pedal, it was going a pad or two more and " over ohming " the controller.

So hopefully, with some fine tuning and adjusting, I should be up and running soon. Does this all make sense?

If all goes well, soon I'll be bugging you about the brakes and stuff. Right side brake drags and stops that side from spinning unless I get it started spinning by hand. I'm expecting rust to pour out when I pull the wheel but we'll save this for later. I'm just happy for what I have now. Some success! Thank you all, again!