Battery's taking a ton of water

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Desert Bill

I can pick up a DVM. Can I measure the voltage while they are all connected in series?

Yes, each battery can be measured while still connected in series.
Just go from post to post on same battery.

An inexpensive DVM in a blister pack from an auto parts store or discount store will suffice.
It should be able to read the individual battery voltages down to 1/100V (IE: 6.37V is a fully charged 6V battery and 6.05V is 50% discharged)

[Desert Bill]

Things have gotten strange. Hooked up charger, went to auto store and picked up multi meter...gone about 40 minutes. Still blinking yellow, pulling about 7 amps. Checked batts while charging...all showed between 7.23 and 7.34. Then the stick I was using fell and hit a red wire that goes to a box on the right side of the cart and the reverse warning alam activates. I moved the f/r switch more towards neutral..alarm silence. Within 5 minutes I get green light on charger. Had been off the charger for about 19 hours, until this AM.

Any idea what happened?

After disconnecting charger, batts read:

6.73, 6.74, 6.73, 6.71, 6.71, 6.73, 6.74

[JohnnieB]

The On-Charge battery voltages look okay.

I don't have a schematic for a Western cart, so I'm not sure which red wire got hit.

If the cart runs and the charger is turning off, maybe you should beat it with a stick more often.

[Desert Bill]

Yeah, kinda like kicking the older vending machines.

So, if I was partially in reverse, I would not think it would make me charge, on an 80% charge for 23 hours, without the green light? Further gassing my batts to death and having to add over 1/2 gallon of distilled water in less than 24 hours.

This Ez is a 2003 txt. Do I have to be sure I am in neutral (no tow switch) or can I leave in forward, with the brake set, and charge away?

Initially, when I bought this used a few months ago...I had no charging problems, but lately, I have been moving the f/r switch to the left just until the reverse alarm silences...perhaps this has something to do with this issue. Some may note my previous thread, regarding longer charge time and excessive moisture, which JB and Sir Nuke, among others, we helpful.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Desert Bill

1. Yeah, kinda like kicking the older vending machines.

2. So, if I was partially in reverse, I would not think it would make me charge, on an 80% charge for 23 hours, without the green light?

3. Further gassing my batts to death and having to add over 1/2 gallon of distilled water in less than 24 hours.

4. This Ez is a 2003 txt. Do I have to be sure I am in neutral (no tow switch) or can I leave in forward, with the brake set, and charge away?

5. Initially, when I bought this used a few months ago...I had no charging problems, but lately, I have been moving the f/r switch to the left just until the reverse alarm silences...perhaps this has something to do with this issue.

6. Some may note my previous thread, regarding longer charge time and excessive moisture, which JB and Sir Nuke, among others, we helpful.

1.

2. Most likely unrelated issues.

3. Gassing is normal and is good for the batteries. However, your batteries are being held in a gassing state longer than they typically for some reason and a lot of water is being turned into Hydrogen and Oxygen by the electrolysis process that naturally occurs during charging.

4. Sounds like you have a 2003 EZGO TXT chassis with a Series drive system. If you have headlights with Halogen bulbs, they might burn out if turned on while the batteries are on charge due to the battery voltage being elevated during charging, but other than that, I don't think it matters electrically. However, for safety reasons, I'd turn the Key OFF, put in Neutral and set the Parking Brake.

5. Your F/R switch assemble may need some maintenance, but I don't think it is causing excessively long charge times.

6. I went back and read your other threads. The longer than normal charging times may very well be due to excessively discharged batteries and/or low AC voltage to the charger, rather than actual battery failures or actual charger failures.

You mentioned you have a dash mounted battery meter and you never let it get below 75%, but is that meter telling the truth?

Use your handheld DVM and the chart I attached to Post#11 in this thread to determine what the SoC (State of Charge) is before charging the batteries.

The voltages on the chart are At-Rest voltages, so let the batteries rest about 15 minutes after cart stops before taking the voltage readings.

The get an accurate estimate of SoC after charging the batteries, wait about 12 hours after the charger shuts off automatically, or drive the cart for ten minutes and then let it rest for 15 minutes.

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Also, call or e-mail DPI and ask what the flashing yellow LED means.

[Desert Bill]

So, here I go again. After my initial posts regarding this issue, I did get a 'green light' indicating full charge after adding water. 23 hour charge, 1/2 gallon of distilled water. So I do about a 2-1/2 mile continous cruise, at varying speeds and bring the cart home at 5 PM. Hook up the charger and 18 hours later, final stage (yellow light blinking, is having fun). Disconnect the charger, batts (15 cells, out of 21) require water, below the plates. Another 1/3 of a gallon. Connect the charger and afer 30 minutes, have a full charge...at least the green light tells me so.

I am concerned about this...especially reading threads about checking batts at least once or twice a month. I did not put anything in the batts except distilled water...so, forget the 'bean' comments, as it relates to excessive 'gassing'.

My concern, other than what is happening, is to be adding so much water as it might displace the 'acid' content.

JohnnieB...help.

[JohnnieB]

Only the water (H2O) breaks down into its component gasses, so if the battery cases aren't leaking and no electrolyte has been spilled, all the sulfuric acid that was originally poured in the battery at the factory, is still there. More correctly, all the sulfur ions are still there, either in the form of Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4) in the electrolyte or Lead Sulfate (PbSO4) in the plates.

I was leaning towards battery a issue earlier, but now I suspect the charger isn't terminating the charge the way it should.

Give DPI a call and tell them what is happening, ask the what the blinking yellow LED means and what the maximum on charge voltage be. 800-334-5091

[Desert Bill]

JohnnieB, again you have led me in the right direction. Called DPI and was shocked that someone answered the phone (no push this #, then that # + this number, and another # for good luck...then hang on the phone for 30 minutes). What great customer service!

Asked for technical support and my call was immediately answered. Explained 10 year old charger/cart, 3 year old batts, and excessive gassing. No rush, 15-20 minute conversation. Their initial thoughts are possible cell weakness. I explained my multi-meter observations, but it was suggested that I get a hydrometer and test individual cells. Looking for about 5.5 SG, as my limited understanding is, and those that may be quite a bit lower by comparison. They said their charger, during charge, looks at the entire system as a 'whole' and a few weak cells could cause the system not to terminate the charge. They did not, for an instant, deny that the charger was the problem, but only suggested further investigation.

After the time these people spent with me, I do understand why ScottB is a fan of theirs.

[DaveTM]

Hmmmm…..Are you certain your not making "heavy water" for some other type of program?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DaveTM

Hmmmm…..Are you certain your not making "heavy water" for some other type of program?

The SG of pure Heavy Water (D20 - Deuterium oxide) is only about 1.106.
A SG of 5.5 would be something heavier than aluminum (2.700) and lighter than Iron (7.870).