2004 Clubcar golf cart just died

[rm32644]

My friend was driving his 06 Club Car when he smelled smoke and it just died. After sitting awhile it won't run at all, but it has a full 50 volts across all the batteries. The solenoid clicks, but appears to be shorted all the time. The two large lines going to the motor from the controller both read 50 volts, to the battery or controller ground. Does this make sense to anyone? Car Serial # PQ0639687333, Controller number CCR285777. Code A=130, B=211, C=069. Motor # 102705001, EJ4-4001.

It is parked outside my garage now, we towed it there (in tow mode). Any help is appreciated. Are there any voltage/ohm/current (10 amp max) tests that I can run to figure out what is going on? There is a 240 ohm resistor across the solenoid. I checked it, it reads OK, 240 ohm.

[shadowman]

try and smell your controller to see if it smells like smoke also look at all your cable ends see if any look like they got hot or burnt color.......smelling smoke isn,t good but need to try and pinpoint it.......is solenoid still clicking?....................

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Flip it back into the RUN position and feel the resistor on the solenoid.... If it gets hot you've got yourself a bad controller. That's probably what you smelled burning.

[rm32644]

No smoke smell now, no cables that look like they burnt. Yes, with the key on, in forward or reverse in "run" mode, not "tow", the solenoid clicks. I can see why the voltage reads 50 on both sides, because you have that 240 ohm resistor across the solenoid large wires, which would leak 208 milliamps of current, enough to make my meter show 50 volts on both sides, but that small current might be irrelevant to the current being switched on by the solenoid to run the motor. It looks like the boundary conditions on the controller are all in place, but the controller isn't controlling.

No, that resistor doesn't get hot.

Shadowman, does any part of your instruction to NASCARprints on how to test a 95 cart controller apply to this 06 cart? Connecting any part of the solenoid output to a battery ground sounds dangerous on the 06 cart, since the solenoid has 50 volts going in.

[FIXEROFCARTS]

Any idea where the smoke came from? That could be where the problem is.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by rm32644

No smoke smell now, no cables that look like they burnt. Yes, with the key on, in forward or reverse in "run" mode, not "tow", the solenoid clicks. I can see why the voltage reads 50 on both sides, because you have that 240 ohm resistor across the solenoid large wires, which would leak 208 milliamps of current, enough to make my meter show 50 volts on both sides, but that small current might be irrelevant to the current being switched on by the solenoid to run the motor. It looks like the boundary conditions on the controller are all in place, but the controller isn't controlling.

No, that resistor doesn't get hot.

Shadowman, does any part of your instruction to NASCARprints on how to test a 95 cart controller apply to this 06 cart? Connecting any part of the solenoid output to a battery ground sounds dangerous on the 06 cart, since the solenoid has 50 volts going in.

Well if the solenoid is still clicking and the resistor isn't getting hot, try this.... Unhook the main battery cables from the pack and kill power to the whole car.... Take the wires off of the motor... Check for continuity between A1 and A2, you should have continuity.... Then check between F1 and F2... You should have it there as well... If you don't have it at either of these places, the motor is what you smelled... Take it off and the smell will probably gag you. Also check to make sure that you DO NOT have any cross continuity, IE... A1 to F1 or F2.... or F1 to A1.... etc.... Also make sure there's no continuity to the base of the motor or to the end cap from any post.

[rm32644]

David, I disconnected the power line to the solenoid, and removed the motor wires. Then I checked per your instructions. I have continuity A1 to A2, and F1 to F2. No continuity A1 to F1 or F2, no continuity A2 to F1 or F2. No continuity from any motor post to the motor base or or end cap.

Is there a similar overview test I can do for the controller? The controller is a Curtis 1510A-5250, 48V, Current: 250A. Serial No. 06112P.285777.

[rm32644]

As to where the smoke was, here is a description per my friend, the cart owner, who was there when it went dead:

....the smoke appeared to be coming up from between the passenger side front battery and the front wall of the battery compartment. It was closer to the middle than the passenger side. It was not possible to tell exactly what it was emanating from.

[FIXEROFCARTS]

Originally Posted by rm32644

As to where the smoke was, here is a description per my friend, the cart owner, who was there when it went dead:

....the smoke appeared to be coming up from between the passenger side front battery and the front wall of the battery compartment. It was closer to the middle than the passenger side. It was not possible to tell exactly what it was emanating from.

Thats where I would go and investigate.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Take off the cover and start sniffin' It should be pretty noticeable.