Weird Club Car Problem

[Sergio]

As You already know, the Controller goes into limp mode when it does not detect pulses from the sensor, but it can also generate a fault if it cannot slow the cart down.

Until the Excel controller came out, all Regen systems needed the motor to be turning at a pretty good speed in order to use Regen brake (about 11mph).

If the cart was going any slower, it was dynamic brake and the power to the field coils came from the gray wire on Pin #9.

The Excel controller excites the motor by applying PWM plug in brake which allows it to use Regen to almost 0mph, so the power comes from the Main solenoid since it remains engaged.

The only reason I mentioned it is because a failure or intermittent power to the Pin #9 wire could cause a fault and put the controller in limp mode.

As it was suggested, You need to troubleshoot while the problem is happening, but don't use the Tow/Run switch as it affects to many systems to be able to properly isolate the fault.

When You are experiencing the problem:
1) Measure the voltage on the harness side of 3-pin connector at the speed sensor Red and Black wires. You should have +15vDC.

2) If You have an insulation piercing probe, measure the voltage at the 3-pin connector Green and Black wires (with the connector plugged). The voltage should go from 0v to 5v as the wheel turns and the sensor reacts with the magnets. The voltage will toggle 0v and 5v approximately 8 times per motor revolution.

Also, measure the voltage on controller Pin #9 to make sure there is +48v.

This should be the schematic for your cart.


2009-2011-precedent_iq_mcor.jpg

[lyonscot51]

I got a voltage meter and checked the wires coming out of the controller and the yellow and white wires measure close to 20; however, the black wire doesn't move the needle. Forgive my electronic ignorance, but is that normal? What else can I check?

[Sergio]

I am not sure what wires You are referring to, I was talking about measuring the voltage at the speed sensor 3 pin connector (between Black and Red and between Black and Green).

The word "needle" is not good as it means you have an old analog meter. You need to get a digital voltmeter, even a cheap or free one from Harbour Freight would be better.

[lyonscot51]

sorry sergio, didn't read your response before I posted my last one. Trying to get it in limp mode now so that I can check it. I hooked the charger to it because normally that does the trick, as far as getting it into limp mode. Know why?

[lyonscot51]

just unplugged the charger after about 1 minute of charge and it is back in limp mode. I will do the test you were speaking of now, sergio.

[lyonscot51]

sergio, is there anyway I can call you? Difficult to type while laying on my back under the cart. I checked everything in your post above and I am not getting the readings that you said I should but I am using the needle type meter.

[Sergio]

If You are not getting +15v between Red and Black at the speed sensor connector, Measure at the Controller Pins #15(Red) and #13(Black/White).

If You get +15v there, there is a problem in the harness between the controller and the speed sensor.

If You don't have +15v there either, the issue is with the controller.

You will not be able to test the voltage between Green and Black at the speed sensor with that kind of meter. You will need a digital meter due to the low power signals used in that circuit.

[jamcphail]

I know this post is old but this problem sounds almost identical to what I'm experiencing with my 2009 Club Car Precedent and was curious what the outcome of it was?

[Aflyer]

I don't think we will ever know the outcome.

The OP has not been online since 4/22/2015.

Aflyer