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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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08-26-2018, 12:17 PM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
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Re: G1 low compression
Thanks mikeasis.. That is some good news about compression.... I'll order seals and update after installed.....
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08-26-2018, 01:31 PM | #12 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: venice
Posts: 1,805
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Re: G1 low compression
link to service manual
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/garag...ir-manual.html also note in the sticky section there is a how to for both crank seals. |
08-26-2018, 03:41 PM | #13 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 146
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Re: G1 low compression
Welcome to the “ahh crap! I’ve got a J17” Club!
They really run very well all things considered. Mine is bone stock except the governor screw is turned all the way in and I get 16 MOH comfortably with an 85:1 pre-mix. Where it’s a bad thing is that jugs, mufflers, and carbs are hard to come by. So take care of what you’ve got or you’re doing the J10 swap. Besides that, glad to have yah! |
08-26-2018, 04:15 PM | #14 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
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Re: G1 low compression
Thanks for manual.... Is there a trick to getting flywheel off? I have sprayed and have puller attached and cranked down as tight as I can get. Should I try heat? I've had them not want to come off, but this one ain't budging.....
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08-26-2018, 10:10 PM | #15 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Down under
Posts: 180
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Re: G1 low compression
Don't use any heat as there are sensitive elec coils and wiring behind the flywheel...get yourself a harmonic puller....They are dirt cheap even in Aussie...I got one for under $20Au.
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08-27-2018, 10:25 AM | #16 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 146
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Re: G1 low compression
Quote:
If still no luck, take the puller offer. Put it back on and try and get those 3 screws as level as possible (a small magnetic level helps). Then, drink a beer, get a breaker bar on that center screw of the puller (mine was 14mm) say a quick prayer and lean into that sucker. This is what i had to do and it was nerve wracking. But that "pop" when it came off was satisfying. |
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08-27-2018, 11:18 AM | #17 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
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Re: G1 low compression
Ahhhhhhhh. What a great sound.... The beer and bigger hammer did the trick !!!!
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08-27-2018, 11:51 AM | #18 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 146
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Re: G1 low compression
Quote:
Now take some wet sandpaper and degreaser or PB Blaster and do a gentle sanding on the crank to get the rust off. Clean the flywheel by dropping it and let it soak in carb cleaner or even just water and degreaser. An old toothbrush and some rags helps here. Then clean the timing plate (carefully!) front and back (degreaser and a few rags and gentle compressed air) and hit it with some battery terminal protection spray. Blue loc tite the timing plate screws. Lastly, Grease, grease, and then when you think to yourself, “ahh it’s greased.” Add a fingertip more. “Where there is grease, there isn’t water. Where there isn’t water there isn’t rust.” Some use 2stroke oil on the seal when putting it in, I did a half assed bearing repack with marine grease, then I greased the inside and edges of the seal. Then after it was seated I greased the outside of it and the shaft. |
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08-27-2018, 04:21 PM | #19 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 30
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Re: G1 low compression
These are some pics after an initial clean up. Seal really didn't look that bad, however, there was a ton of oily crud behind flywheel. Where am I concentrating the grease application? I'm sure by now you all can tell this is my first cart, and I really appreciate the feedback from everyone. When I get new seals and clutch puller, I'll update progress.. Thanks again.
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08-27-2018, 04:31 PM | #20 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: venice
Posts: 1,805
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Re: G1 low compression
seal lip is torn. that's why its wet. when you get the old seal out and compare to the new one you will see.
doesn't look to have been leaking for a long period in dusty conditions so just hit everything with brake clean and let it dry for a few and reinstall. LIGHTLY lubricate the inner and outer edges of the seal with engine oil, atf or electrical grease. light coat of oil on the crank when installing the new seal so that new lip seal slides in place. Inspect the bearing on each side and lightly lubricate them as well. I had engine fogging oil (for engine storage) that was easy to spray into the bearings just for initial start up. mind the timing marks for the coil plate install. don't get crazy with the grease.. clean the crank with light sand paper, like 400 or so. put a light coat of oil on the crank (just looks wet is enough) and reinstall the flywheel. To much oil and grease attracks dirt. |
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