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Old 08-26-2018, 12:17 PM   #11
ghost1
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Thanks mikeasis.. That is some good news about compression.... I'll order seals and update after installed.....
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:31 PM   #12
mikeasis
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Yamaha
 
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Default Re: G1 low compression

link to service manual

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/garag...ir-manual.html

also note in the sticky section there is a how to for both crank seals.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:41 PM   #13
JerEazy
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Welcome to the “ahh crap! I’ve got a J17” Club!

They really run very well all things considered. Mine is bone stock except the governor screw is turned all the way in and I get 16 MOH comfortably with an 85:1 pre-mix.

Where it’s a bad thing is that jugs, mufflers, and carbs are hard to come by. So take care of what you’ve got or you’re doing the J10 swap.

Besides that, glad to have yah!
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:15 PM   #14
ghost1
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Thanks for manual.... Is there a trick to getting flywheel off? I have sprayed and have puller attached and cranked down as tight as I can get. Should I try heat? I've had them not want to come off, but this one ain't budging.....
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:10 PM   #15
griffo002
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Don't use any heat as there are sensitive elec coils and wiring behind the flywheel...get yourself a harmonic puller....They are dirt cheap even in Aussie...I got one for under $20Au.
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:25 AM   #16
JerEazy
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1 View Post
Thanks for manual.... Is there a trick to getting flywheel off? I have sprayed and have puller attached and cranked down as tight as I can get. Should I try heat? I've had them not want to come off, but this one ain't budging.....
keep spraying it with PB Blaster behind the flywheel and rotating it to get that PB around it. Let it sit for a bit. Then crank it down snug and give the puller a good whack with a hammer on the center puller screw (or whatever you wanna call it) and try again.

If still no luck, take the puller offer. Put it back on and try and get those 3 screws as level as possible (a small magnetic level helps). Then, drink a beer, get a breaker bar on that center screw of the puller (mine was 14mm) say a quick prayer and lean into that sucker. This is what i had to do and it was nerve wracking. But that "pop" when it came off was satisfying.
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:18 AM   #17
ghost1
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Ahhhhhhhh. What a great sound.... The beer and bigger hammer did the trick !!!!
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:51 AM   #18
JerEazy
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Default Re: G1 low compression

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1 View Post
Ahhhhhhhh. What a great sound.... The beer and bigger hammer did the trick !!!!
POP! Ahhhhhh.... Hahaha.

Now take some wet sandpaper and degreaser or PB Blaster and do a gentle sanding on the crank to get the rust off. Clean the flywheel by dropping it and let it soak in carb cleaner or even just water and degreaser. An old toothbrush and some rags helps here. Then clean the timing plate (carefully!) front and back (degreaser and a few rags and gentle compressed air) and hit it with some battery terminal protection spray. Blue loc tite the timing plate screws.

Lastly, Grease, grease, and then when you think to yourself, “ahh it’s greased.” Add a fingertip more.

“Where there is grease, there isn’t water. Where there isn’t water there isn’t rust.”

Some use 2stroke oil on the seal when putting it in, I did a half assed bearing repack with marine grease, then I greased the inside and edges of the seal. Then after it was seated I greased the outside of it and the shaft.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:21 PM   #19
ghost1
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Default Re: G1 low compression

These are some pics after an initial clean up. Seal really didn't look that bad, however, there was a ton of oily crud behind flywheel. Where am I concentrating the grease application? I'm sure by now you all can tell this is my first cart, and I really appreciate the feedback from everyone. When I get new seals and clutch puller, I'll update progress.. Thanks again.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:31 PM   #20
mikeasis
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Default Re: G1 low compression

seal lip is torn. that's why its wet. when you get the old seal out and compare to the new one you will see.

doesn't look to have been leaking for a long period in dusty conditions so just hit everything with brake clean and let it dry for a few and reinstall. LIGHTLY lubricate the inner and outer edges of the seal with engine oil, atf or electrical grease. light coat of oil on the crank when installing the new seal so that new lip seal slides in place. Inspect the bearing on each side and lightly lubricate them as well. I had engine fogging oil (for engine storage) that was easy to spray into the bearings just for initial start up. mind the timing marks for the coil plate install. don't get crazy with the grease.. clean the crank with light sand paper, like 400 or so. put a light coat of oil on the crank (just looks wet is enough) and reinstall the flywheel. To much oil and grease attracks dirt.
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