Troubleshooting Help After Forklift Jump ;->

[joelmcf]

Crazy Newbie Situation -- Texas Style ...

So I have a used Crown 36V fork lift that I bought on a whim on Craigslist (grand ideas). I have been looking at ways to hot wire it in lieu of buying a new $2500 battery pack. Right now it is a 8000lb paper weight.

I got the "great" idea to try using jumper cables and use my 2003 TXT (non-PDS) to power the 36V fork lift. Good news, my fork lift came to life. Bad news, my EZGO no longer works. After jump starting the lift, I then tried to override the dead fork lift charger by disconnecting the BL+ and BL- leads to isolate the EZGO pack. When reattaching the leads (BL+ and BL-) back to the EZGO pack, I left the key ON and got a big spark when reattaching the BL-. After that event, my cart no-workie....

I have followed all the troubleshooting tips to isolate the solenoid, controller and ICL. I have downloaded the service manual to find the issue. Here are the facts, your help if appreciated:

- 2003 EZGO TXT non-pds (36V)
- aging battery pack charge is 37.2V (each battery okay)
- continuity on all micro switches good; continuity on F/R switch good; no tone on solenoid (not welded)
- NOT hearing tick at solenoid when key on and switch pushed to F
- NOT seeing voltage change on pedal ICL (sp?) between no press and full press
- seeing full voltage of 37.2V from pack to solenoid, across solenoid, to controller, from controller to F/R switch, and to lead to motor. F/R in neutral divides the voltage.

In summary, my charger is not working, my cart is not working and I can't isolate the issue. Please help and I promise never to jump start a fork lift.

Thanks,
/jm

[ekgguy]

Only in Texas....

I am sure that someone here will chime in with words of wisdom (and admonishment) soon.

[bolter]

Check your reed switch first thing.

[rabbitreborn]

Txt solenoid activation
power starts on the white wire on the 36+ of the battery pack.
Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire. ( check for power here, 1st!)
the red wire travels back through the loom to the forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro.
The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch.
The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the forward and reverse switch.
The power then goes through a 4 pin molex connector and travels to the "pedal box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire.
That red wire comes back up to the controller/f&r area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid.


Look for power at each of these points to isolate what blew up......

[shadowman]

...........i bet you,ll never do that again....................

[joelmcf]

Gents -- Thanks for the help. I had the chance to do some testing tonight and I have some new data (but no resolution thus far.

What I did and what I found:
- Opened charger receptacle
- hooked up meter w/ black wire on white BL- lead, tested Voltage (V) to reed switch. zero V.
- Tested continuity to receptacle = positive/tone.
- Tested continuity past reed switch via red lead on F/R switch = positive/tone.
- Tested continuity all the way through key switch to micro switches to red on solenoid = positive/tone
- Total battery charge is 37.4V from BL- to BL+
- Voltage into battery side of solenoid = 37.4V
- Voltage out of opposite side of solenoid = 36.7V
- No voltage difference when depressing gas pedal

I built bypass wire looms for reed switch and pedal ICL but no difference in voltage reading or continuity test.

I'm still not hearing a solenoid click during all the tests. Key is on for all and I tried w/ and w/o depressing gas pedal. It is obvious there is a break in the circuit resulting in no voltage readings throughout the test.

What am I doing wrong or what else do I need to isolate?

Thanks mucho!

/jm

[rabbitreborn]

you need to hook the black test lead to the battery pack negative and then follow the voltage on the Solenoid activation circuit that I posted above.... that will tell you at what point you are losing the activation.

[joelmcf]

Rabbit_Reborn,

Thanks for your continued help. I have a Fluke tester with black and red leads. I connected the black lead to the negative post of the final battery. This battery had the white wire connected to the receptacle.

As noted, if I connected the red lead to the BL+ positive terminal on the first battery I got 37.4V. If I connected the red lead to the white lead on the receptacle, I got 0.0V. Connecting the red lead to the black lead on the receptacle, I got 37.4V. I ran a continuity test from the black lead on the negative battery post to the white wire on the receptacle, past the reed switch to the F/R switch, to the key, etc. all the way to the solenoid and got positive continuity.

Am I being stupid? It seems that I have a break in the flow somewhere...

Thanks again,
/jm

[rabbitreborn]

Sorry about the delay in responding but work has kept me hopping for a few days and I have been dog tired when I get home at night....

I'm a little concerned about the color scheme of the wiring you have as you are reporting that the white wire is on the pack negative and it should normally be on the pack positive. Is there any way you could take a photo of the battery pack for me with focus on the main negative and positive?

If you attach the black from your Fluke to the negativeon the rear battery on the passenger side and then use the red probe to test for voltage along the activation circuit, what are your readings?