A Sizzle Sound/Now a Dead Cart!

[mgh777]

O Mighty golf cart GODs--- After making a hard left hand turn to pick up a ball, I heard A sizzle sound and my cart had to be towed to the house-I have checked all batt wires with my meter--getting correct voltage from batteries (37v) checked the speed controller and getting voltage readings all over it--even when u set the test up for the accelerator to be pressed and ur suppose to get a gradual increase in voltage---it starts out at 36v without pressing the accelerator. I believe I have a bad speed controller because of what I think is a open circuit throughout the controller. Any way to test the speed controller once I take it out (off the cart) before I spend $400 and find out that its something else. It is a 2006 ez-go series txt 36v 1206 fivepin 275amp speed controller--

[JohnnieB]

To bench test a speed controller, you have to simulate a cart on the bench.
Unless you plan on bench testing a lot of controllers, just test it in the cart.

Jack the rear wheels off the ground and put on jack stands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

Remove the resistor from across the large terminals of the solenoid. (It sometimes causes confusion when testing and isn't needed for troubleshooting)

Connect DVM test leads between B- and M- terminals on controller.
Press pedal only until solenoid clicks. You should read FULL battery pack voltage.
(Note: At 37V, your battery pack is less than 70% SoC and needs to be charged)

If not, there is an open or excessive resistance in high current loop, which is highlighted on the attached schematic.

If so, press pedal slowly to floor.
Voltage should gradually decrease to Zero.

If not, either the controller or the throttle input to the controller is bad.

Let us know what you find and we'll proceed from there.

[Sir Nuke]

sounds like some of the magic smoke got out........

[mgh777]

Thanks Gods---Going out too test Now!!!! will let u know something soon (If I don't kill myself) Thanks!

[mgh777]

Ok JohnnieB---here it gos---according to my little $5 DVM from harbor fright tools--I get (as it sets) 3.5v--- I know right there that something is wrong. Right? when I put the red prob on B- and the black probe on the M- --as u press the accelerator it does go down to 0 volts--I did everything u told me to do and my wife read ur instructions as well to make sure I made no mistakes. Yes -I removed the big resistor only from the battery side of the solenoid. Yes there was a clicking sound once u push the accelerator pedal . I do believe that the proper speed controller for this 2003 series (no tow switch) is a 1206 36v 275amp 5 pin--am I right? Do you think we need a new one? If so and since the cart is so old-do u know where I can get an old used one? and when we donate do we get a star by our name or what? Thanks mgh777

Originally Posted by mgh777

and when we donate do we get a star by our name or what?

yep 4 of them !!!

[scottyb]

The sizzle sound was likely coming from one of the F&R internal contacts, It is actually a welding sound....Closely inspect the F&R. Remove the hat, get a light and compare the color of the 4 cable terminals on the back side.... is one darker than the others? If in doubt post good clear pics and we will look

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mgh777

Ok JohnnieB---here it gos---according to my little $5 DVM from harbor fright tools--I get (as it sets) 3.5v--- I know right there that something is wrong. Right? when I put the red prob on B- and the black probe on the M- --as u press the accelerator it does go down to 0 volts--I did everything u told me to do and my wife read ur instructions as well to make sure I made no mistakes. Yes -I removed the big resistor only from the battery side of the solenoid. Yes there was a clicking sound once u push the accelerator pedal . I do believe that the proper speed controller for this 2003 series (no tow switch) is a 1206 36v 275amp 5 pin--am I right? Do you think we need a new one? If so and since the cart is so old-do u know where I can get an old used one? and when we donate do we get a star by our name or what? Thanks mgh777

Not getting FULL battery pack voltage between M- and B- when solenoid first clicks, indicates there is a problem somewhere in the Cables/Connections/Contacts that are highlighted in Red or Blue on the schematic I posted.

Like Scotty mentioned, the F/R switch contacts are prime suspects.

-----------
As for the controller being good or bad, it's too soon to tell.
Got to get the voltage between M- and B- right before controller can be tested.

[mgh777]

Thanks a lot guys! I'm an old man and very slow at getting around--I will take the f&r panel off in the morning and inspect it. Have any Idea what a new one would cost? Where should I order it from?