'95' G14: How to replace driven clutch ramp shoes?

[Dabble Inn]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

The OEM original "white" push in ramp shoes could have been replaced with aftermarket "black" cheap ramp shoes at some point. The older style spring seat is not as beefy as the new style with screws that hold in the newer style ramp shoes. I would bet if you take it apart and check the sliding sheave bushing, it would be worn. With it taken apart, you can check all the components and fix what is needed. Not a "money maker", just a job done correctly. Good luck on your project.

Sliding sheave bushing, Is that pressed in or simple to replace? Ok sounds like I better get a puller ordered up and check it all to do it right, Thanks

[sho305]

I have removed with a 3lb and a rod maybe 3/4 rod with a rounded blunt end. This is not the right way to do it and could damage parts. You take the nut off half way and hit the inner in the web between the ramps, the beefy part. Rotate the clutch and hit another one. Lay the rod against the case close to shaft as you can get, under the bumper or remove the rear body. Usually a few hits and it pops loose, remove nut and it all comes off. Mine I have to remove the outer key it will hold the outer sheave on until I pull it out with vice grips, some the key falls out so don't do it on grass where you can't find it.

The easier way is buy a cheap steering wheel puller they don't cost much, just need metric bolts if they don't come with right size.

The new style spring perch did not cost that much few years back when I bought one, and came with the new pads. I don't know now.

If they are toast it likely trashed the ramps on the sheave also and it needs replaced. You can smooth them off with sandpaper/etc if they are minimally damaged. It wont shift good with them gouged up, it will eat up the new pads also.

Far as reassembly you can get it on by hand if stock spring and your strong enough to hold it for a few seconds, you have to preload the spring against the ramps, rotated over one ramp. Usually you can see the wear in the spring holes to put back in same place if not changing the setting. You can also use a one by board to hold the inner in while you put the outer on. With a large spring they put a ratchet strap around the inner to hold it. Don't use any tools on the outer part of sheaves they will bend/break easily. Grease the bushing in there.

Bushing easy to replace I think I used a socket (like a 1/2 drive of correct diameter) to drive it out and something flat to tap new one back in and seals. Again be careful of the sheave don't put pressure on the outer belt part its weak, only deal with the center hub part.

[Dabble Inn]

Originally Posted by sho305

I have removed with a 3lb and a rod maybe 3/4 rod with a rounded blunt end. This is not the right way to do it and could damage parts. You take the nut off half way and hit the inner in the web between the ramps, the beefy part. Rotate the clutch and hit another one. Lay the rod against the case close to shaft as you can get, under the bumper or remove the rear body. Usually a few hits and it pops loose, remove nut and it all comes off. Mine I have to remove the outer key it will hold the outer sheave on until I pull it out with vice grips, some the key falls out so don't do it on grass where you can't find it.

The easier way is buy a cheap steering wheel puller they don't cost much, just need metric bolts if they don't come with right size.

The new style spring perch did not cost that much few years back when I bought one, and came with the new pads. I don't know now.

If they are toast it likely trashed the ramps on the sheave also and it needs replaced. You can smooth them off with sandpaper/etc if they are minimally damaged. It wont shift good with them gouged up, it will eat up the new pads also.

Far as reassembly you can get it on by hand if stock spring and your strong enough to hold it for a few seconds, you have to preload the spring against the ramps, rotated over one ramp. Usually you can see the wear in the spring holes to put back in same place if not changing the setting. You can also use a one by board to hold the inner in while you put the outer on. With a large spring they put a ratchet strap around the inner to hold it. Don't use any tools on the outer part of sheaves they will bend/break easily. Grease the bushing in there.

Bushing easy to replace I think I used a socket (like a 1/2 drive of correct diameter) to drive it out and something flat to tap new one back in and seals. Again be careful of the sheave don't put pressure on the outer belt part its weak, only deal with the center hub part.

Wow great help, I do have a steering wheel puller at home. Problem is I'm 100 miles from there so gotta try to do this with nothing lol....

I will say the shoes do still have some meat left on them so I don't think the ramps are hurt, And hopefully the bushing has been regularly greased as he does have it serviced yearly......

I very much appreciate yours and everyone else's advice, I will post a follow up with what I find out. Thank y'all

[Golf cart guy]

The inner bushing is very beefy, and your right, if its been greased on a regular basis, they never wear out. Its also a simple check to see if it is worn before you ever take the clutch apart. Your also correct that just because the ramps are worn down doesn't mean there is any damage to the cam. Checking the clutch face for wear is important

[sho305]

A new bushing has a tiny bit of play in it, worn they wobble a noticeable amount.

[Dabble Inn]

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

The inner bushing is very beefy, and your right, if its been greased on a regular basis, they never wear out. Its also a simple check to see if it is worn before you ever take the clutch apart. Your also correct that just because the ramps are worn down doesn't mean there is any damage to the cam. Checking the clutch face for wear is important

Originally Posted by sho305

A new bushing has a tiny bit of play in it, worn they wobble a noticeable amount.

Thanks to you both, The new belt will be here today but now the shoes are delayed till Thursday or Friday

[Dabble Inn]

FOLLOW UP;

I got it done yesterday and YES it IS possible to change the clutch shoes without removing the clutch.....

However;
Would I do it that way again? NO!! And make that NO with a capital 'F' lol, I felt like the monkey and the buggy was the football ....

One thing I didn't think to ask you guys about before is how to get the shoes out if they're stuck in the hole, I assumed they would simply pull out by hand or maybe use channel locks but there wasn't enough meat left to grab..

Maybe this method will help the next guy;
After removing the bolts I pried, prodded, picked and poked with no results.

Finally, And as a last resort I was able to screw a short little wood screw into the bolt hole of the shoe then clamped a tiny pair of needle nose vise grips onto it and gently using the handle of a Cresent hammer tapped them out.

Bottom line;
A $20 puller would have saved me a lot of back pain, hassle, frustration and time. But the job is done!!.........Thanks everyone for the great advise