98 TXT knock when starting/stopping

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Corey_W

Ok cool. So weird though...why would it have a code on it for a 98. Is there somewhere on the frame that has number info.

Should I remove the governor?

And I’ll get another video later when I take my little one out...does in need to show the engine? Or just more for sound?

The date code could be because someone changed the dash or info plate. Mine has a 1995 dash in it because mine had holes in it and I had a good 1995 dash. . I just left things like they were. According to plate mine is a 1995 but its really a 2004.

Don't remove the governor. You are good on that. Those larger tires will give you all the speed you need.

There should be some numbers on the rear top of frame but I wouldn't worry about it. We know you got no later than 2003 and no earlier than 2002.

Ezgo changed some things around the mid part of 2002. Some of the 02's had twin shift cables and some single which is much better.

In 2004 ezgo changed the engines to the MCI. Yours is Pre-MCI. They made them four years and then moved to the Kawasaki IN 2008.

You got a nice cart.
kgsc, CP241 and myself did hear something odd. If you look behind where you shift from F-R you will see where you can put in the maintenance mode. Means you can run the engine and it won't get knocked in gear and run over you.

You will pull and turn the lever and it will lock in neutral. You will know when its in the right position because you can't shift it.

You can then run it while taking another video . Just be careful doing this. If you are not sure you got it right then jack it up . I can tell you from past experience that these things can run over you or whatever is in front or rear of you if you don't practice safety when working on these carts.
Upload another video for us and lets take one more look and listen

[kgsc]

Yep, second the locking it in neutral. I have seen what happens when a cart breaks loose

[Corey_W]

Here you go guys....thanks for all the info.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl5Ma9KzLww

[Corey_W]

And I’ll just go with 02...year I graduated high school.

[trig123]

I don't think that is a rod knocking but I am not 100 % sure. The starter/generator belt is not dry with chunks out of it on the inside is it ?

Seems like I have heard that sound years ago and it was a bad S/G belt but I might be wrong. Its hard to tell exactly what it is but check that belt first. I know it don't sound good . I am always concerned when I hear a noise like this.

Could be the drive clutch also.

The old rule we used back in the 60's and 70's was when checking for rods knocking on cars was remove the plug wires one at a time. The one you remove and the knocking sound is different was the bad one. Again I don't think that is your problem but you could remove both wires and spin it over to see if it still knocks.

I heard you say you added oil in the last video you made. Lifted carts will not show on the oil stick correct. You have to mark the stick so you don't overfill it. Takes exactly 1.5 quarts. Mark the stick after you pour it in. Lifting these carts tilts the engine and if you add oil to the full place on the oil stick and you are overfull.



I just remove the three bolts that hold oil filter in with cart jacked up on opposite side to make sure you get all the oil out.

Overfill it and it will start smoking. Common on lifted carts for people not to know.

[Corey_W]

Ok. I’ll drain and fill and mark. 10w30?

Belt looks bad. And how do I check the clutch?

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Corey_W

Ok. I’ll drain and fill and mark. 10w30?
Yes, good quality 10w30 is what I would use.
Belt looks bad. And how do I check the clutch?

Yes, that belt has seen its better day. EZGO 630587. I try and stay with an OEM. It will cost around $20 but worth it.
You can remove the clutch cover while still on the engine. Just remove the bolts and tap it off. I would replace the belt first and see if it makes any difference. You need one anyway.

[Corey_W]

Got the belt in and going to try and replace tomorrow. Will post a follow up video.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Corey_W

Got the belt in and going to try and replace tomorrow. Will post a follow up video.

Good luck. Not saying it will solve your problem but you needed one anyway.

Could you slide the drive belt off and then move the drive clutch back and forth while you got the S/G belt off ? If its a stock belt it should just slide off with ease. See if you hear any noise when trying to move the drive clutch turning it with your hand. .

Make 100 % sure when installing the new belt that the key is turned off or battery cable removed.

[Corey_W]

Swapped the belt and noticed the same sound when I spun the drive clutch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSreihjjYtw