Smoked my 600A Solenoid!! Need advice

[69mock1]

1st off my apologies as I originally posted this message in the wrong forum.. I’d prefer this one please moderators…

Well follks 2016 prec. I did all the work that’s probably the problem..

New 14s 180A 2017 Chevy Bolt Li-NMC Battery
Bandit motor upgrade
600A navitas OTF controller
2 AWG motor/controller/battery cable upgrade
600A solenoid/contractor off of Amazon with diode and precharge resistor
Two 400A in-line fuses

300 Amp Master Shutoff (left run/tow switch wiring intact but this switch supcedes it making the tow/run switch alway’s in “run-mode” mode regardless of switch position

6” lift running 22”x12’s on all 4 corners

Front led light bar/taillights/on-dash lit toggles with fuse box and master kill switch.

Newest problem: well finally after a 1 year build I’m almost finished. Tuned the controller using the iPhone app. Thing kept getting disconnected via Bluetooth. Finally dialed it in, jacked the rear axle up so the rear tires spun freely…

Disclaimer: battery had yet to be charged. Currently measuring 53.7 volts.


Every so often the controller would time out and I’d get an alert on the controller app:(I’ll include the screen capture) main solenoid coil over current..

Solenoid would open and I wouldn’t get any response from the throttle.. I would have to disconnect the small wires on one of the small posts where the diode is attached on the solenoid and the contactor would reset itself..

Soooooooo:

Took it for its first shake down today. Went down the sloping driveway (about 400 feet) crazy power—awesome. Wheels loved breaking loose on the gravel.. (forgot to mention when timing it the app read 28 mph!! )))!!!

Turned around to go “UP” the drive and it acted up. Same alert on controller app., smoked the new 600A solenoid then got a field warning alert on the controller after I fiddled with the wiring on the solenoid and cut power then turned it back on.


Also I ran resistance between the two small leads on the front of the solenoid as instructed by the alert from the controller and I wasn’t within working specs. Only 8 ohms…


Who can help me rectify this problem and what’s the cause of this? My cart is built to the hilt….!…

[69mock1]

More pics:

[Tom47]

From the first photo, it seems the problem was a loose connection on that small terminal. The diode is correctly installed. The error code also could indicate a loose connection.

The coil (the small terminals you are mentioning) resistance of 8 ohms may be correct. As long as it isn't open, reading infinite resistance, it is probably ok.

The burn may be superficial and the solenoid may still be operational. Put a terminal on that wire and connect things back up and see what happens. If the solenoid clicks and closes, you should be good to go.

[Volt_Ampere]

Those solenoids have two coils: A pull-in and a holding coil. The pull-in is switched off after the solenoid engages. If that switch doesn't open, the pull-in coil will smoke. (been there with those solenoids) The Chinese knock off's are junk IMO.

[69mock1]

Does anyone recommend a solenoid that will work with my type of set up and do I want a 400 or a 600 amp?

[Volt_Ampere]

IMO a 400 amp solenoid is probably fine. I would get one from one of the site sponsors rather than from Amazon. Use the proper size wire terminations and make sure that there are no shorts between connections on the solenoid and that your diode is installed in the correct direction. Test your diode before re-using it.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

IMO a 400 amp solenoid is probably fine. I would get one from one of the site sponsors rather than from Amazon. Use the proper size wire terminations and make sure that there are no shorts between connections on the solenoid and that your diode is installed in the correct direction. Test your diode before re-using it.