Club Car Villager 6 modified to idle; Starter-Gen not recharging battery at idle?

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by Lost In Florida

Ah, thank you! Glad to be here. lol

I have considered replacing the s/g with an alternator in a few of my irritated days,

Look at this, you would have to make a bracket for the alternator, but this solve the problem. It's not on a Club Car but it's the same consept


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone...r-clone-2.html

[TJL]

I was poking at my club car carryall today thinking about your question and another question proposed earlier. I think your problem lies with the micro switch that engages the starter. The charge from the starter/gen can only make it to the battery while the microswitch is engaged(pedal pressed. Crank the idle up to full blast if you want, still won't charge if the gas pedal is not pressed.

This is not verified completely, it just what I noticed with a little bit of poking with a multi meter.

Assuming this is all correct, you could theoreticly use a switch as a starting signal instead of the pedal. Flip the switch on, it activates the starter then once started, the gen starts charging. Same as if you just gassed the cart and held the pedal in.

Also you said it has a key switch, is it still pedal start?

Might be worth looking in to. Or I could be totally wrong and thinking about it too much.

[lockman1]

For what it's worth...

A lot of Villager 6's came from the factory as "key start" carts,
the easiest way to tell is if it has stock head lights, tail, and brake lights,
and a relay in the electrical components box. (which you said you've replaced)

Unfortunately, I have to agree with 93 that the charging system for golf cars were not designed electrically for higher output/loads,
and a 300 rpm spring (in the front/drive clutch) may help, but, most likely... not enough!
So, I would also have to agree with nobuck that a separate deep cell battery
may be able to handle the load of the "lit-up topsign" a bit better!
it's just the matter of keeping that one charged also! (hence, the isolator)

Stock Club Car voltage regulators are designed to only have an output of 15.3V at mid/full throttle with no load, (but again, only around 15/16 amps)
No CC S/G of which that I have seen, or read about, will have an output of +14V at an idle.

I have read about an adjustable output voltage regulator, (don't ask me where to find one, or what brand... I don't know!)
but, I, personally wouldn't use one in-line with stock golf car electrical components,
it would maybe work with an alternator/battery in an outside loop, but again, you'll need to do some fabricating!

I wish the best to you!

[Lost In Florida]

Okay, so list of things to consider:
Stiffer spring (may not help?)
Changing to alternator (is this common to do?)
Deep-cycle battery (Not preferable, but still an option)

TJL - That's interesting..
It is key-start, but we have the microswitch bypassed to keep it idling? So it doesn't necessitate hitting the pedal to start.. would that matter? Would you still suggest installing a switch?
Initially we had to replace the stock s/g due to worn brushes (a job I'm not keen on doing myself), and before we realized it was the brushes not engaging and not allowing the cart to start, we were pointing fingers at that microswitch, so I am at least aware of it's existence.
I'm just.. still unsure why they bypassed it in the first place and didn't realize the charging issue that cropped up when they did that.
Six batteries later.. 'Hey, I don't think its charging'. Really. lol


Lockman1 (and nobuckbuild) - The LED runner-lights are the crappy do-it-yourself ones bought from Advance Auto, and the top-sign, while occasionally illuminated, has been in "permanently-off-while-troubleshooting-this"-mode.
I was considering the possibility that the additional lights were just pulling too much amperage, but I can't fathom how..
The cart is really only running it's own headlights/tail lights/blinkers, and these two strips of lights.. that couldn't possibly be enough to be giving the charging system a problem, could it?
Investing in a deep-cycle battery is an option as well, obviously, and thank you for suggesting it.
I'll do some hunting around, but if anyone has a link to a thread where someone has done this (adding in a deep-cycle battery & isolator) that would be amazing, because off the top of my head.. where would you even put the battery, in the cart? lol


Rib33024 - Very handy link, thank you! Saving this as my "I have no other options left, time to fix this permanently", which is drawing close really fast. lol

[TJL]

if your handy with a multimeter, poke at the solenoid that the batter and re-charge/start cable goes to. you might find your problem there. if the problem is with that microswitch and it works the way im thinking it might, you might actually not be charging at all.

im not familiar with the amp draw of your headlights but the LED lights shouldnt be be using much at all.

your reminding me why i like to completely start fresh with my normal wiring jobs. once a few different people have worked on things and "fixed" them, it can be more difficult to fix than just replace.

[lockman1]

I'm not quite sure why I'm butting in again... but, you have me curious about a few things!

My cart is a "pedal start" cart, and I have the engine kill microswitch disconnected so it starts with the pedal and yet, still idles!
(and no... mine doesn't charge at an idle either!)

but... what your saying is throwing me off a little bit!

Originally Posted by Lost In Florida

.
It is key-start, but we have the microswitch bypassed to keep it idling? So it doesn't necessitate hitting the pedal to start.. would that matter?

• 1) Does your key switch have just off/on positions? (pedal start) OR... off/on/start positions? (key start)
  
• 2) Is the roof-top sign something small? (similar to a "taxi" sign?) or a programmable LED advertizing sign? (is what I envisioned!)
  
• and... 3) How long do you let it sit idling? 2 minutes? 5 minutes? 20 minutes?

[nobuckbuild]

so you have a pedal start cart that has the kill switched bypassed you either have it idling to low causing the starter generator to keep the engine turning not actually running but the starter turning the engine, fast way to check is while it is idling disconnect the battery, if it dies you know whats going on, which will drain the hell out of batteries constantly. heres a link to some instructions for the deep cycle battery , and you put it in a box where the bagwell in the back in a battery box or if you have a rear facing back seat it will be a squeeze but it will fit http://www.ehow.com/how_7510918_inst...-isolator.html

[Lost In Florida]

Lockman1 -
1. On/Off/Start
2. The topsign is large, but not LED; it's illuminated inside by about three or four incandescent bulbs; We haven't been turning on recently while troubleshooting, but have been monitoring voltage while it's on and off, and haven't noticed a difference in reference to the sign.
3. In normal operation (picking people up, idling in traffic, etc.), I would venture about five minutes max, at a time.


TJL - I'm not sure if I'm following; you mean the solenoid could be bad?
Or will the solenoid give an indication of proper/improper microswitch activity?

Nobuckbuild - Thank you for the tip, will check that when I next get a chance.
Keeping the deep cycle battery in the back of my mind; I appreciate the link a lot! Doesn't seem all that bad.

[TJL]

Can you take a picture of your solenoid setup?

Also you should be able to have the cart off and check the battery voltage then see the voltage come up when you start the cart and hit the gas pedal.

I verified on my carryall when the gas pedal is not depressed the starter/gen is not charging. The microswitch that the throttle hits provides ground to the start/charge solenoid. The ignition being on throws 12v+ to the solenoid. If your key switch was added later and not done correctly, you might not be charging at all.

So while your cart is running or idling, check the solenoid to the start/gen. If you have ground on 1 of the smaller bolts and 12v on the other you should be ok.

[TJL]

Also I assume by your name your in FL, where abouts? I'm in deland near Daytona.