over tightened castle nuts :(

[jeffjonesflorida]

air impact wrench... the speed will get it spun off before the ball joint has time to spin in steering arm seat.

ball joints are one of those things that need the air impact to make it easier on the service. once zipped back on with impact you can use a wrench to do the final alignment of the hole in shaft and the castle nut openings.

(there was a recall on polaris atv ball ends back in the mid 2000's while i was a tech at a polaris dealer.. did so many ball joint removals and front end alignments we were pretty sick of seeing ball joints by the end of the month)

[lawnripper]

again thanks! I do not have a impact wrench available unfortunately.. so I have to come up with another way to back the castle nuts off.

I have some other things join on right now but will get the washers and hopefully figure out a way to remove the nuts.

ps.Shon, these are after market parts.. Also there is no horizontal play while the cart is on the ground.

thanks man!!

[simple man]

Originally Posted by lawnripper

again thanks! I do not have a impact wrench available unfortunately.. so I have to come up with another way to back the castle nuts off.

I have some other things join on right now but will get the washers and hopefully figure out a way to remove the nuts.

ps.Shon, these are after market parts.. Also there is no horizontal play while the cart is on the ground.

thanks man!!

Take a pair of " Vise-grips " ( mans best friend ) and hold the joint to the knuckle. This should allow you to get your nuts back off!

[Gonkulor]

Originally Posted by simple man

Take a pair of " Vise-grips " ( mans best friend ) and hold the joint to the knuckle. This should allow you to get your nuts back off!

But I would put some leather in the Vise-grip jaws as well, to keep the marring down. Simple don't forget about the Duct-tape. As Mr. Green always says, "If the women don't find ya handsome, at least they will find you handy"!

The impact wrench is the best way but you said you don't have one. A prybar, of some sort will also help too.

You said you are using after market parts, no biggie there. You also said the joint is tight and that is good. Chances are very likely you need that metal washer mentioned. I doubt you have stripped the threads but you might have ran the nut all the way down to the bottom of the threads on the joints shaft. If you have done that please take a look at the bottom couple of threads on those nuts when you get them off. Make sure the threads are still sharp and are not flattened. If they are you should get new nuts.

Also while you are trying to remove the joint, besides clamping it with a vice-grip and using a prybar, you want to tilt the lower socket in any direction that gives you more resistance. Every little bit of resistance you can put on the ball thread going up threw the arm will give you more chances to get the nut off.

Hope you get it. Let us know what happens.

[simple man]

Originally Posted by Gonkulor

But I would put some leather in the Vise-grip jaws as well, to keep the marring down. Simple don't forget about the Duct-tape. As Mr. Green always says, "If the women don't find ya handsome, at least they will find you handy"!

The impact wrench is the best way but you said you don't have one. A prybar, of some sort will also help too.

You said you are using after market parts, no biggie there. You also said the joint is tight and that is good. Chances are very likely you need that metal washer mentioned. I doubt you have stripped the threads but you might have ran the nut all the way down to the bottom of the threads on the joints shaft. If you have done that please take a look at the bottom couple of threads on those nuts when you get them off. Make sure the threads are still sharp and are not flattened. If they are you should get new nuts.

Also while you are trying to remove the joint, besides clamping it with a vice-grip and using a prybar, you want to tilt the lower socket in any direction that gives you more resistance. Every little bit of resistance you can put on the ball thread going up threw the arm will give you more chances to get the nut off.

Hope you get it. Let us know what happens.

Oh yeah, duct tape! Mans next best friend!!!

[Dirtdigger]

Originally Posted by Gonkulor

I'm in agreement with Dooms, just put some washers under the nuts. But I have concerns you got the right parts. The rods/joints should have tapered shafts and everything should fit very snug when assembled. My only concern would be if the tie rods or ball joints have sloppy side play when you had the nut ran down tight ie. the hole is bigger than the diameter of the tapered shaft.

With all that said, chances are the stuff you have is aftermarket , like everything these days, and the parts might be more universal fitting than the MFG specific part. If that is the case and everything is nice and snug.... some washers to get the cotter pin alignment needed is all you need to do bud.

Good luck
Shon

When I bought my cart,the previous owner tried to take up the "slack"with washers on the outer tie rods ends..Because of the tapered shaft there was too much movement with the same size washers.I took some small flat stock I had laying around,cut it in small squares.Then drilled them the same size as the thickest part of the taper to the thinnest part.Being square,the "spacers fit nice and tight.Solved my sloppy steering problem.

[DOOmsman]

The old hillbilly impact wrench was smack the end
of the wrench to jolt the nut loose. I recommend the box end
on the nut to save your knuckles.

[yurtle]

There's always the type impact driver seen in the first photo:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Cheap and quite useful.

[Gonkulor]

Originally Posted by yurtle

There's always the type impact driver seen in the first photo:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Cheap and quite useful.

Heck ya! Even though I have an air impact sometimes it just to much trouble to set it up. That manual style you linked is a great investment for anyone without a compressor.

Good advice.

[lawnripper]

It has been a while! Hope everyone had a great xmas!! Thanks again for all the information!!!! My buddy down the street had a pry bar and he just taped it into place between balljoint and the (idler arm?) in front of the rubber boot and the bolt backed right off. We put on nice stainless steel washers. The rubber boots were history and I ordered some more. Until then I just greased them up inside and out to keep the elements off. So the treads were fine and everything is nice and tight. :) Now I am trying to figure out why my cart is reading 39.9/40.1 even 10hrs after the charge and riding around the hood for at least 1-2 hrs. Seems like a hight reading.. but I guess that will be another post. Happy new years everyone!!