Where to land "Logic Power" wire after new install

[hoythunter141]

OK That is why I was asking if there is a quick way to bench test the controller and solenoid. Below is what all I have installed. By the way nothing on the controller itself has sparked. Only the blue wire that we have been discussing in this thread when I touched it to the solenoid and the battery terminals.

1) Alltrax "AXE" 4855, 500A Controller
2) HD F&R Switch Assembly
3) EZ GO AMD 6.1 Non-Peak HP @ 4600 Rpm "The Raptor"
4) HD Solenoid 36V 400A
5) 4 gauge wires throughout

[scottyb]

Okay so it is a series drive cart. With a rotary F&R mounted on the floor on the passenger side.
Use my diagram below for the F&R small wire locations. The red wire should have a constant positive power supply
The blue wire goes to your ignition switch. You might have a small wire on the wrong terminal at the solenoid ?

[hoythunter141]

Here are 2 pics if they will help any. On my MS2 where the red jumper lands there is also a lug for another wire to land there which is also where the blue wire landed on my old setup before I pulled it out. So is this not needed any longer? I will take some pictures of my whole setup when I get home but right now on my solenoid I will tell you how I have it wired.

To start I have the 4 gauge wire coming from B+ on my controller that lands on the #2 side of the large stud on the solenoid. Then the opposite side I have the 4 gauge wire that goes from the solenoid over to the 400A fuse which I have landed on the positive battery terminal. For the small wires I have one coming from the B- terminal on my controller that lands on the #2 screw along with my black wire that went to the beeper (which I bypassed by using a wire lug and tying the red & black wire together) and also one side of the diode. As for the #1 side of the solenoid I have a red wire that comes from the throttle switch and also a black wire (I made myself) that comes from terminal one on the controller and of course the other end (silver bar) of the diode. If this makes any sense maybe this will help us.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by hoythunter141

OK That is why I was asking if there is a quick way to bench test the controller and solenoid. Below is what all I have installed. By the way nothing on the controller itself has sparked. Only the blue wire that we have been discussing in this thread when I touched it to the solenoid and the battery terminals.

1) Alltrax "AXE" 4855, 500A Controller
2) HD F&R Switch Assembly
3) EZ GO AMD 6.1 Non-Peak HP @ 4600 Rpm "The Raptor"
4) HD Solenoid 36V 400A
5) 4 gauge wires throughout

Controller: See attachment. Not really a bench test for controller, but it does power it up.

Solenoid: Remove all resistors, diodes, wires and cables. Connect one small terminal to main negative terminal on battery pack and the other to the main positive terminal on battery pack. Solenoid should click.

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I spark in the anywhere in the cart can cause a spike in the battery voltage and take out the controller.

[yurtle]

Do this after taking it off the charger for a while. Let the hydrogen and oxygen given off while charging dissipate. They like to combine and form water in an exciting way.

[hoythunter141]

Thanks again guys. I have printed all of this off that you have given me and hopefully I can make something happen when I get home. I hope nothing is damaged. I don't think that I can wait another day to see what this thing will do. Wish I could just buy JohnnieB a plane ticket to come fix it. LOL

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by hoythunter141

Here are 2 pics if they will help any. On my MS2 where the red jumper lands there is also a lug for another wire to land there which is also where the blue wire landed on my old setup before I pulled it out. So is this not needed any longer? I will take some pictures of my whole setup when I get home but right now on my solenoid I will tell you how I have it wired.

To start I have the 4 gauge wire coming from B+ on my controller that lands on the #2 side of the large stud on the solenoid. Then the opposite side I have the 4 gauge wire that goes from the solenoid over to the 400A fuse which I have landed on the positive battery terminal. For the small wires I have one coming from the B- terminal on my controller that lands on the #2 screw along with my black wire that went to the beeper (which I bypassed by using a wire lug and tying the red & black wire together) and also one side of the diode. As for the #1 side of the solenoid I have a red wire that comes from the throttle switch and also a black wire (I made myself) that comes from terminal one on the controller and of course the other end (silver bar) of the diode. If this makes any sense maybe this will help us.

Looks like you have an extra wire on the controller's B- terminal. Should only have a 4Ga cable from battery pack and a single wire to one of the solenoid's small terminals.
Remove the resistor and diode from the solenoid terminals. (The are not needed for operation or troubleshooting. They extend the life of some contacts, so install them after everything else is working properly)

Wire exactly as shown of the AXE controller schematics Scotty posted or the one I posted and it will (should) work.

[hoythunter141]

OK So I get home and take everything off. I bench check the solenoid and controller just like the document says that JohnnieB posted. Solenoid clicks and controller LED blinks green a couple of times and then stays solid green. So I start from scratch and wire everything up EXACTLY like the document says EXCEPT the Reverse Beeper. Like I said earlier I don't want to hear that SO I use a wire nut and tie the "RED 1 & BLACK2" together with the wire nut. OK All done.... I turn on the key and nothing happens... I give it gas and nothing happens... SO I turn the key off and start to ponder again. I notice that the buggy is in reverse so I turn the key on and go to put in forward. When I do this I hear a poof and nothing but smoke. After the smoke clears I start to look and find that where I had the reverse beeper wires tied together it not only melted the wires but the wire nut as well. ???? Any ideas now?

[yurtle]

Not following this exactly, but removing the buzzer and shorting the wires together is BAD. Remove, don't bypass. You want to open circuit it, not short circuit it.

[hoythunter141]

OK Guys. I am getting close. So took the reverse beeper out of the circuit. I turned the key on and was giving it gas and nothing. I was tracing out the circuit and bumped the gas pedal and it jumped forward. Then I noticed it was in reverse so I put it in forward and bumped the gas solenoid clicks controller lights up and the carts moves backwards. So I think about it a minute and try it again just for the heck of it and now NOTHING AGAIN. I AM SSSSOOOOOOO CLOSE!!!! I just want to ride it before the sun goes down today. LOL