G9E lunges when you press the accelerator

[bassclef78]

I just go this cart going again, but when I press the accelerator, even barely, it takes off full speed. It's almost like the accelerator is working as an on/off switch instead of gradual. What can I check?

[cgtech]

Unplug the throttle range sensor. It is the 3-wire plug from the gas pedal. If it still goes full speed, controller is shot.

[bassclef78]

Unplugged the throttle range sensor with the same results. Full speed when the pedal is engaged. Is there anything inside the controller I can test out?

[cgtech]

There is tons of stuff in there you could test out. But there are no pubicly available schematics, and no "inside the controller test procedures" for the logic circuits, so interpreting the results is totally up to you. Do you think you know enough about what's going on in there to figure it out? I'm suggesting a new controller.

[bassclef78]

I'll make sure the wires are making good connections then just replace the controller.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[bassclef78]

I'm getting back to my cart project. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the buzzer has been removed. There are three pink wires around the controller that are not connected. Would this cause any issues?

Also, I'm planning to remove the controller and do a basic check on the wire to be sure everything is connecting.

What replacement controllers are recommended?

[cgtech]

Shouldn't cause a problem like you are having. A great controller for your cart would be a Alltrax SR48400 or SR48500 if you plan on offroading & big tires. Either way, you should upgrade to 4g cables & a better solenoid. Scottyb has this stuff at great prices, www.cartsunlimited.net. If you want to avoid the upgraded cables & solenoid, you could use a SR48300 to be a "stock replacement".

[bassclef78]

I'm back to working on the cart. I have a rebuilt controller and all I get is solenoid click. I have the wiring diagram but would like to verify a couple of things.

1. Black wire from controller to battery negative (was labeled with tape)
2. Black wire from controller to A2 on motor (was labeled with tape)
3. Battery positive to one side of solenoid
4. Red wire from controller to other side of solenoid
5. FNR post S to same post on solenoid as red wire from controller.
6. Charger port cables, red to battery positive and black to battery negative

Other connections are plugs so they match up
The buzzer is missing too if that makes any difference.
One black wire on the controller is a good bit longer, on the old controller, I assumed this went to the motor because of the distance. This is the one that has been labeled battery negative. The shorter black cable is labeled A2.

[fatheroz]

I'm having the same problem with a 36v G8E. Cart was given to me with the recommendation that I replace the Solenoid. I did so and added a 3 amp diode that was not on the solenoid we removed. It works. But as you've stated, just touching the pedal, it clicks and bam! off you go, both F and R. Just wondered if you found any solution. The controller for mine is like $450, so I want to try other things first.