Club Car Precedent "open armature" fault code on my curtis hand held computer

[manimal13]

So a couple months back I replaced brushes in a motor for a guy. Everything has been fine. Then it just stopped. Now it just does nothing. Loud click from solenoid but no movement. We've replaced solenoid, controller, speed sensor and OBC. Still nothing. Of yeah, I tried a new MCOR but nothing changed so I put the old back in. Reason we replaced brushes is because he ran out of battery and pulled it behind his truck for 1 1/2 miles in "run" mode. I bought a curtis handheld and plugged directly into the controller and it gave me the "open armature" fault code. No loose wires and speed sensor is good. Does anyone know if it's possible that when he fried his motor originally he may have also fried the terminals where the four cables connect to the motor? Could they have been partially fried at that point and then finally crapped out? I'm out of ideas.
Thanks in advance for the help.

[manimal13]

And because I know it seems weird to just throw parts at this thing, I have a garage full of parts because I have a rental fleet of all club car Precedents so I had a bunch of extras to gamble with. And like most gamblers, it has not gone my way. Haha.

[Sergio]

Is that the only code You are getting?

Pulling the cart while in RUN will create a tremendous amount of heat in both the Motor and the Controller Armature driver.

Most likely the Controller is bad as well.

[manimal13]

So, it's a PQ06 and I switched out the controller and I'm not gonna lie, I am questioning whether the the black curtis controller I put in was the same as the black curtis controller I pulled out. It's the only fault code I got. Cart is an 06 but I did notice that the controller was manufactured in 07. Does that make a difference?

[Sergio]

The black Curtis 1510 is the correct Controller for that cart.

Put your meter between B+ and M-, does the voltage go from 0v to near pack voltage as You press the pedal?

[manimal13]

Not sure, but I'll head that way now and see. Be back shortly. What if it does/doesn't?

[manimal13]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The black Curtis 1510 is the correct Controller for that cart.

Put your meter between B+ and M-, does the voltage go from 0v to near pack voltage as You press the pedal?

If I pressed it down about 2/3 of the way it got over 48v. If I pressed it down all the way it dropped to 31v

[Sergio]

It is a Motor issue then, have you tested the motor?

Disconnect the cables from the Motor A1 and A2 posts and check if You have have continuity between the Motor A1 and A2 posts.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

It is a Motor issue then, have you tested the motor?

Disconnect the cables from the Motor A1 and A2 posts and check if You have have continuity between the Motor A1 and A2 posts.

Hey Sergio, bringing this topic back online as I have a 2007 precedent that was also towed in "run" and stopped running. The controller gave us a HDW Fail Safe fault si I sent for reman with FSIP. Now the resistor in the solenoid was really hot and looked burnt on one side. We received the controller and car did nothing. We did not get any armature faults and called FSIP. After some checks, it needed to be sent back for addtl work. My question is what happens if car is towed in run and will the motor also fail. When we took the reman controller out, the car was not plugged to charger but the resistor and controller were hot. Does this mean anything? Thank you for your help.

[movin-on]

Did you check the motor...A bad motor can take out the controller...