Accessory Wiring - Sanity Check!

[scroggins]

Can I get an opinion on whether this wiring diagram looks correct.

Basically adding a voltage reducer, fuse block, and rocker switch panel setup.
Want all the accessories to be totally powered off when cart is "off" so have the reducer tapped into the key switch. Then have power running from reducer to fuse block. I think where I'm second guessing myself is on the pos from accessories going into the fuse block or the switches...is the diagram correct in that the accessories would go to the switch panel and then from the switch panel to the fuse block?

Thanks!

[cszajna]

First post here so I hope I get formatting correct.

I think you may have a few issues here.

First: It would be helpful if you had a link to your voltage reducer/converter. Not all are the same and the wire colors are not necessarily universal.

Second: I the top (black) lug on the fuse block is mis-labled. It should probably be going to the negative side of the battery, unless your converter specifically states the blue wire is negative.

Usually the converter will have 5 wires as such:
1.) Yellow - 48/36V constant. Goes to positive side of the battery
2.) Green - 48/36V switched. Goes to key (I ran mine to the switched control on the solenoid as it is closer to where my converter is located)
3.) Black - Ground - Goes to negative side of the battery
4.) Red - 12V Switched output - Goes to the bottom/positive side of the fuse block
5.) Blue - 12V Constant output - Can be capped off if not needed. In my case it goes to my radio/stereo to maintain the memory in the unit (i.e. station presets, bluetooth, settings, etc.)

Also, you may want to double check the wiring to your switch panel to power the switch LED's and the different accessories.

Good luck.

Chris

[Fairtax4me]

Like said above, kinda depends on the reducer as to what wires do what. Follow the wire color legend on the unit you buy.

Your switch on the left is just a fuse popper. What's that one gonna be for?

Your light kit will come with a pull out style switch but you can easily ditch that and use your toggle switch.
The power wiring harness in the light kit brings power from the battery pack through the harness to their switch, It's already pre-wired to just plug into the factory harness. You'll have to figure out which wire is power Out to the lights from the switch, and just connect that wire to your toggle switch. The other wire can be taped off or removed from the harness if you want to take it apart that far.
Otherwise, I think you got it.

[scroggins]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Your switch on the left is just a fuse popper. What's that one gonna be for? :

I “think” that “powers” the lights across the whole rocker bar plus the usb outlets…they have “dash lights” to see in the dark separate from the power to the accessory each switch throws. So basically that would just be coming off a 10a fuse to peer the back lights and the usb.

[scroggins]

Originally Posted by cszajna

First post here so I hope I get formatting correct.

I think you may have a few issues here.

First: It would be helpful if you had a link to your voltage reducer/converter. Not all are the same and the wire colors are not necessarily universal.

Second: I the top (black) lug on the fuse block is mis-labled. It should probably be going to the negative side of the battery, unless your converter specifically states the blue wire is negative.

Usually the converter will have 5 wires as such:
1.) Yellow - 48/36V constant. Goes to positive side of the battery
2.) Green - 48/36V switched. Goes to key (I ran mine to the switched control on the solenoid as it is closer to where my converter is located)
3.) Black - Ground - Goes to negative side of the battery
4.) Red - 12V Switched output - Goes to the bottom/positive side of the fuse block
5.) Blue - 12V Constant output - Can be capped off if not needed. In my case it goes to my radio/stereo to maintain the memory in the unit (i.e. station presets, bluetooth, settings, etc.)

Also, you may want to double check the wiring to your switch panel to power the switch LED's and the different accessories.

Good luck.

Chris

Fair point! Here’s a pic of the converter wire colors…I “think” I got it right but another set of eyes is always helpful!

[ThreeCW]

The 48 volt to 12 volt reducer is an electrical device, so you should have a fuse on the 48 volt power going into your reducer.

[scroggins]

Originally Posted by ThreeCW

The 48 volt to 12 volt reducer is an electrical device, so you should have a fuse on the 48 volt power going into your reducer.

I hear you. In “theory” the reducer has protection, it is rated at 40-90v input and has its own overload, over voltage, short circuit protection…even if that doesn’t work isn’t that the whole point of the fuse block…if for instance it surged, wouldn’t it just pop all the fuses?

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by scroggins

I hear you. In “theory” the reducer has protection, it is rated at 40-90v input and has its own overload, over voltage, short circuit protection…even if that doesn’t work isn’t that the whole point of the fuse block…if for instance it surged, wouldn’t it just pop all the fuses?

A fuse on the 48 volt input is meant to protect the 48 volt side of reducer ... the 12 volt fuses are downsteam of the reducer and will not function to protect anything on the 48 volt side.

If you want to protect your 48 volt reducer you need a fuse ... theory will not protect it.

See the attached reducer wiring diagram from site sponsor Carts Unlimited. Scotty does not have "theory" protecting his 48 volt circuit ... he too has a fuse.

[Fairtax4me]

Fuses don't protect the device. Fuses protect the Wiring that supplies power to the device. Without a fuse, the Wiring becomes the fuse. Wires don't burn out quickly like a fuse, they take everything else up in flames with them.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Fuses don't protect the device. Fuses protect the Wiring that supplies power to the device. Without a fuse, the Wiring becomes the fuse. Wires don't burn out quickly like a fuse, they take everything else up in flames with them.

Absolutely!

Fuses are sized according to the amp rating of the wires, not the devices.