No go... again

[healy61]

Well got everything back together checked continuity from yellow wire to each solenoid all checked good and I can feel them click. ????????????? btw its not easy holding a probe in each hand and pressing gas pedal, lol.

dmv alligator clips

[healy61]

Now you lost me, had the meter on continuity, one probe on yellow and other probe on each progressing solenoid (red, green, blue, etc.) and pressed gas pedal. not right?

yes correct

diagram with factory colors

[healy61]

Thanks Crash, I didn't have a color coded one. If that was right everything was good. What am I missing? still no go..... ya I need to get some of those with alligator clips!

ok review
micros good
solenoids good
coils good
motor good
f/r switch good

the white cable off the coils feeds the f/r switch
if everything is good and you have no f/r then that cable is bad ... try jumping it
jack up cart and put on stands for this test

[healy61]

Okay tomorrow I'll jack it up and jump that cable with jumper cables, get back to ya, have good night!

here is how your cart works as i understand it ... lol
key supply's negative current to the f/r limit micro switch
f/r limit micro switch is activated by the f/r switch cam
f/r limit micro switch passes the negative current to one side of the solenoid (small stud)
go pedal makes the speed limit micro switches activate the other side of the solenoids (small stud) with positive current ... in this order
#1 switch activates the #1 coil (green wire) supplying current to the rest of the coils
#2 switch makes # 2 coil activate and current goes through all coils to f/r switch
the coils burn off current making cart run slow
as you press go pedal it in turn activates each micro switch and that engages each solenoid and a lesser amount of coil ...finally giving you full power at full pedal with no coils
your coils supply power to the fr switch (white cable)
f/r switch gives power to motor ether in forward or reverse
neutral cuts power to motor and cuts out f/r limit switch
the motor gets negative current from battery pack negative and routs the current to #1 coil
f/r switch gets 36v or 18v (reverse) from positive battery pack

note : this is the simple version

[healy61]

I know very little about electrical, 61 and still learning, that all makes sense to me Crash, well done! Think I will go ahead and replace the coils after all 30 yrs. old, can you still get them?