86 club car rebuild

[RONNIEB]

jdunmyer, Scott H.

Can you tell me the best way to go about testing the motor and solenoids
or where I might find some good tips?

It has 5 solenoids as you know and when I press the pedal with the cart jacked off the ground I here all five solenoids click but the wheels don't start turning until the 3rd click. It seems the micro switches would be good if the solenoids
are engaging.

Can a solenoid engage and still be bad?

Is the first click I hear the first solenoid just energizing the bar or does it have 5 speeds?

Which solenoid is used for the 1st speed?

Sorry for so many questions but I sure do appreciate the help.

[jdunmyer]

Ronnie,
Yes, it's entirely possible for a solenoid to click, but not pass any current. My cart was missing 2 solenoids when I got it, and 2 of the remaining 3 were bad, even though they clicked. I had thought to use one of them for the main solenoid in my controller hookup, but had to discard them.

I'm pretty sure the far LH solenoid (as viewed from the rear) is the main one, then the next 4 are used for the speed control, shorting out the resistor coils in succession. I'm not sure if it has 4 or 5 speeds, haven't really studied the appropiate diagram in detail. Note that there IS a diagram in one of the stickys.

If the motor runs, it's probably "good". It's easy enough to yank it and put it on the bench for close checking. Label the wires (I use masking tape "flags") and hold the cable lug with channellocks while loosening the nut so the stud doesn't turn. Make sure everything is clean when you put it together, and hold that cable lug again while tightening the nut. If the brushes are not stuck in their holders and have plenty of length left before the spring bottoms out, you're good to go.

From what I've read here, the most common problems are loose or corroded connections (especially on the batteries), bad solenoids, especially on this type of speed control, and stupid mistakes by owners when they fool with the wiring. Those can often be prevented by labeling the wires/cables as I mentioned above; don't trust your memory!

[RONNIEB]

Thanks jdunmyer, thanks for the info and good advice
I'm going to clean all the connections and replace the cables with the ones my buddy gave me and maybe take apart the f/r switch and clean it.
They seem to be in a lot better condition than my old ones.

Does anyone know what the voltage should read at each solenoid as you press the accelerator?

What is the correct way to check and see if the solenoids are passing the correct voltage when energized?

Do you check the reading across the two large post on the solenoid?
Could you take a reading at the motor to see what voltage is getting to the motor?

If so which terminals would I use?
Does the motor need to be under a load or is the voltage passed to motor anyway?

What should a 6 volt battery read when fully charge?

I'm getting away from my original post I guess. Do I need to start a new post?

[jdunmyer]

Ronnieb,
I can't help much at the moment because I have a very poor and unstable internet connection, sorry. Also, I have little first-hand experience with the solenoid system. Here's a bit of a starting point:

The first (LH) solenoid should have +36 volts on one terminal (negative meter lead on the - terminal of the pack). As soon as the acellerator is pressed, it should click and you should have 36 volts on the other terminal also.

Of the 4 motor terminals, one should be a solid "zero volts" when the motor is running. The others will vary depending on the acellerator setting.

NOTE!!! Do not allow the motor to reach full speed with the axle jacked up, it will cause damage!!

Try to study out the diagram to see how the juice flows through the switches, it really isn't very complex.

[Scott H.]

Sorry I haven't been around much to help lately. I've been sicker than a dog and honestly, I'm not thinking about golf carts much at the moment. It looks like jdunmyer has you covered though.

-Scott H.

[jdunmyer]

Ronnieb,
As you push the pedal down, the solenoids will "pick up" in sequence, beginning on the Left. (as viewed from the rear, as always!) You'll note that one of the small terminals of each solenoid is 'common' to all. Put your meter lead on the other one and you'll see it go to +36 volts as the pedal is pressed. If that solenoid is 'picked up', or energized, the voltage on the larger terminals will be the same on each side. If it's not, that solenoid is bad.

[yellerdog]

Thanks jdunmyer, the more I study and mess with this the more I understand.

Scott H. hope you get to feeling better soon and I appreciate the help you have given me.

I'm new to this forum stuff and kind of got in trouble. I will try and explain.

I have started a new post under the user name yellerdog titled
"86 club car won't go in forward only reverse" because I forgot my
password and couldn't get it to reset.

I have abandoned the rebuild with the stuff my buddy gave for now and
am just trying to get my cart running better.
Well over the weekend the cart quit going while in forward but would go in reverse so I started a new thread.

Sorry for all of the confusion I guess you will have to excuse me for being such a dummy.

If you look at the other thread you will what problems I am having.
I think the main forword/reverse switch may be bad and shorting out.
What do you think?