Noob question RXV

[hosseface]

So im trying to learn all I can about my new cart. 2008 RXV. 4 12 volt batts = 48 volts.

Everyone talks about reducers, etc for accessories.

Everywhere I test (batts, solenoid, etc) I cant find more than 12.8 volts.

Where is the 48 volts at?

Also, trying to learn about my cart and keep seeing DCS and PDS (or whatever it is). What is mine??

Thanks!

[JohnnieB]

The four 12V batteries are connected in series for 48V, which can be measured between the Positive terminal on the passenger side battery and the Negative terminal on the rear battery.

If you aren't measuring 48V at the solenoid's battery side larger terminal, you've got some sick batteries, a sick voltmeter or the negative test lead is attached somewhere other than the battery pack's main negative terminal.

EZGO taps the battery pack at 12V for accessories, which imbalances the load on the batteries in the pack, which in turn causes some of the batteries to be overcharged while others are undercharged and the whole pack fails sooner.

A 48V to 12V DC to DC converter (aka Voltage reducer) draws current from the entire pack evenly, maximizing battery lifespan.

Three types of motors are use in EZGO carts. Series wound, Sepex (SEParately EXcited - aka Shunt wound) and AC.

RXV is the body style, but it only comes with an AC motor, so just calling your cart an RXV suffices.

DCS (Drive Control System) and PDS (Precision Drive System) use Sepex motors. DCS came in both Medalist and TXT body styles, PDS only in TXT bodies. (There were some other body styles with Sepex motors, but I don't know which one offhand)

The rest used Series wound motors.

[Gr8hntr]

DCS (Drive Control System) and PDS (Precision Drive System) use Sepex motors. DCS came in both Medalist and TXT body styles, PDS only in TXT bodies. (There were some other body styles with Sepex motors, but I don't know which one offhand)

how can i tell which one my cart (TXT) has ?

[JohnnieB]

Enter serial number on this site:http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

Use attached chart

[hosseface]

Thank you. Very useful information.

I know NOTHING about golf carts and I am trying to figure mine out.

I had been doing a lot of testing around and everywhere I tested I got 12 volts, even at the solenoid. But I assume that is becuase I was just hooking up to one battery at a time - not the correct sequence as you listed.

Do you know a lot about the history of what fails on the RXVs? Mine has brand new batterys and is in overall pretty good shape.

What my problem is is at random times my cart will not move. You turn the key, hear the click/thump and get nothing. 5 minutes later it works perfect. That happens every 3-4 times you try to drive it.

I tried a key switch aka FNR switch and a new solenoid. Nothing. Yesterday I ordered both the switches for the accelerator pedal. I hope that will fix it. It wont stay in fail mode long enough to do any diagnosing/testing.

Any suggestions on what to try next if the accellerator sensors do not fix it? It is becoming very frustrating.

Thanks

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The four 12V batteries are connected in series for 48V, which can be measured between the Positive terminal on the passenger side battery and the Negative terminal on the rear battery.

If you aren't measuring 48V at the solenoid's battery side larger terminal, you've got some sick batteries, a sick voltmeter or the negative test lead is attached somewhere other than the battery pack's main negative terminal.

EZGO taps the battery pack at 12V for accessories, which imbalances the load on the batteries in the pack, which in turn causes some of the batteries to be overcharged while others are undercharged and the whole pack fails sooner.

A 48V to 12V DC to DC converter (aka Voltage reducer) draws current from the entire pack evenly, maximizing battery lifespan.

Three types of motors are use in EZGO carts. Series wound, Sepex (SEParately EXcited - aka Shunt wound) and AC.

RXV is the body style, but it only comes with an AC motor, so just calling your cart an RXV suffices.

DCS (Drive Control System) and PDS (Precision Drive System) use Sepex motors. DCS came in both Medalist and TXT body styles, PDS only in TXT bodies. (There were some other body styles with Sepex motors, but I don't know which one offhand)

The rest used Series wound motors.

[JohnnieB]

I know next to nothing about RXV carts and what I do know, was mostly gleaned from this forum.

I believe it was introduced in 2008, it has had some growing pains and from what I understand, not all the problems have been resolved yet.

Some people love them, other people hate them. I'm more or less neutral, but lean towards the latter group due to the near total lack of technical information that is readily available, rather than for the merits and/or faults of the drive system, as produced.

As for the intermittent problem your cart is having, for some reason the controller isn't resetting itself. It could be things like the Key/F/R switch or the pedal switch or the throttle, (Which you have or are replacing) or it could be a loose or corroded contact in one of the plugs that connect the various controls to the controller, or the controller itself.

Try disconnecting all the plugs, hit them with spray cleaned and reconnecting them.

Also, flipping Run/Tow switch to Tow when cart won't move might reset controller.

Sorry i cannot be of more help troubleshooting the problem.
Perhaps someone more familiar wit the RXV will chime in.

[Jerj7907]

Johnnie is right. I love my RXV's. Remove the floor board if you have not already and start checking the switches. There are if I remember correctly 3. RxV's are tempermintal about the connection. Make sure all battery connections are clean and tight as well although yours are new but I would double check. Also check plug that is under cupholder that is the diagnosis port and if removed the cart will not work. Just an FYI when I take my cart to public places I remove that plug as all EZGO carts take the same key. This makes me feel better when I leave cart in public. Be careful when checking voltage on carts. I know of 2 carts that people fried the controller on trying to check voltage. These controllers are expensive to replace.

[Markv]

I am also very new to this and have an RXV. I took the wiring diagram you put on here and added to it to make sure when I do upgrade and add stuff I do it right.

I plan on getting a 30 amp reducer and want to just run a radio ( most likely just amp with aux input to ipod and 2 speaker) and an LED light bar for my headlights/ floodlight. Would I need to add a fuse ox anywhere and if so where? And is the correct way I would wire everything up, I know its a rough idea but I think it gets the point across. Thanks

RXV Battery wiring.JPG

[PinballDad]

Originally Posted by hosseface

Thank you. Very useful information.

I know NOTHING about golf carts and I am trying to figure mine out.

I had been doing a lot of testing around and everywhere I tested I got 12 volts, even at the solenoid. But I assume that is because I was just hooking up to one battery at a time - not the correct sequence as you listed.

Do you know a lot about the history of what fails on the RXVs? Mine has brand new batterys and is in overall pretty good shape.

What my problem is is at random times my cart will not move. You turn the key, hear the click/thump and get nothing. 5 minutes later it works perfect. That happens every 3-4 times you try to drive it.

I tried a key switch aka FNR switch and a new solenoid. Nothing. Yesterday I ordered both the switches for the accelerator pedal. I hope that will fix it. It wont stay in fail mode long enough to do any diagnosing/testing.

Any suggestions on what to try next if the accellerator sensors do not fix it? It is becoming very frustrating.

Thanks

UGHHHHH! That is my exact same problem friend with my 2008 RXV. I created a thread months ago but nobody here could help. It seems the model just does not have that big of a following and many here are more knowledgeble with the other versions that Scotty mentioned. I have fiddled with mine over and over and cannot figure out why it will not move sometimes. I turn the key back to off a few times and also push the cart 1 inchwith my foot and it always ends up moving after that. I noticed that as long as I do not go to the Off position again (keep key in reverse or forward) it will always move when I press the pedal...even hours later.

Wierd. I hoope we both figure out what it is:)

[MiltonC]

Here's the wiring diagrams that I have.