Alltrax popped, now what?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Well Johnnie B a second opinion would be hard to come by here I am the only one at the club that even knows there is something under the seat cushion...............

You can get a second opinion on the forum.

Like the others asked, what voltages are you getting that makes you believe the controller is bad?

Troubleshooting a PDS can make you want to pull your hair out and then toss a PDS to NCX/DCX adapter into the mix and your may start pulling other peoples hair out.

Does the Green LED come on steady?
How many times does it flash before it comes on steady?
Does the solenoid Click?

[hugger6933]

No buzzer. No solenoid click. I've seen no lights lit up on the controller. When I hook to the M- and the B+ and mash the pedal the voltage stays at 0. There was anther controller output test on the paper I had printed off of here and carried with me to the cartshed and each one of those also indicated the controller was indeed bad. I don't want to replace the controller no more than the next guy would but testing it this week with a bad controller isn't gonna make be bad somewhere else next week no matter how much I wish it wasn't the controller.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

No buzzer. No solenoid click. I've seen no lights lit up on the controller. When I hook to the M- and the B+ and mash the pedal the voltage stays at 0. There was anther controller output test on the paper I had printed off of here and carried with me to the cartshed and each one of those also indicated the controller was indeed bad. I don't want to replace the controller no more than the next guy would but testing it this week with a bad controller isn't gonna make be bad somewhere else next week no matter how much I wish it wasn't the controller.

If the Green LED doesn't come on steady, there will be no solenoid click, no buzzer and no output, so the question is: Does the controller have the right voltages being applied in the right places to power up?

You have to have B+ (Battery pack voltage) on Pins 6, 9 & 10 to power up a DCX controller. Attached are schematics with those three pins highlighted back to their respective voltage sources through the PDS to DCX adapter.

If you have already done this, my apologies, but nothing you've stated in your posts in this thread prove the controller is bad.
I'm just trying to save you from replacing a several hundred dollar controller when the problem is a bad adapter, connection, wire or switch.

[scottyb]

Do yourself a favor and step up to a 400 control and HD solenoid. The 300 is a stock replacement control for limited operation. You will gain more torque with a larger control. We have a 400 NPX and HD solenoid combo for $399 here > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

[kgsc]

Scotty, good to know. When did they come out with the NCX 400 ?

[radioman]

JohnnieB is the source of the best advice and instructions troubleshooting controllers correctly that money can't buy.

[hugger6933]

I shut my shop down early[I own a body shop, where I rebuild late model wrecks, trucks mainly] and went to the cart shed to check the pins on 6 9 and 10. Pack voltage is at 37.5 but when I back probed the pins none of them went over a volt. One was .3 one was .7 one was .5 I think I didn't write them down for reference they were all below one volt. What makes this whole thing worse is my "spare " cart is down as well and it needs the two most expensive parts that are on it to make it run again also. there was anF4 tornado came through the central part of the state at the first of the month and the first thing it hit was a country club, I've been thinking I would see some of those carts at my salvage sale I buy through but not yet. I guess I'll be fixing something. Thanks for the replys guys .Jim

[kgsc]

Check out the wiring diagrams supplied but also check to see if there is pack voltage on the red wire coming out of the charger socket. That is is the interlock wire and nothing will work correctly unless voltage is there.

[JohnnieB]

It is strange to be missing all three of those voltages, but they all ultimately come from the main positive terminal on the battery pack even though they follow different paths.

The voltage source for Pins 6 & 9 is the Reed switch (Red wire coming out of charge receptacle)
Voltage source for Pin-10 is the high current cable on the solenoid's battery side large terminal. Should be hot at all times.

Find out why those voltages are missing and you may find the controller is okay.

[hugger6933]

The cart does not have a reed switch Nor does it use the charge receptacle. It has a different type plug like the older carts used[ kinda looks like a dryer plug]because in the early days when I first built this cart I had a 82 EZ-GO that was our main cart and I had two carts that used the same charger. When I built this one and demoted the 82 down to spare use I still wanted to be able to charge Any of the three I had[the kids had an older one than the 82 that also had the same plug]. Then I got rid of the older of the carts and gave my cousin the 82 when I got the 92 gas burner 4 seater. the charger still worked like it should so I saw no reason to change the ends after all that time of using it like it was. I know that may not be the right way but it had worked from the 06 year until the start of this year. sometimes my wife and I would play 6 times a week on that cart so it got used, it couldn't have been totally wrong. Jim