ScottyB’s conversion kit - popping fuses

[TheTick]

Got the 48v conversion kit, it’s all wired and double checked, but I keep blowing the 2-3a barrel fuse in the + source going from the keyswitch back to the pedal. It gets power and that keyswitch activates the 12vdc converter just fine, but pops the little fuse before it closes the solenoid. Continuity checks are good, nothing appears shorted… I’m literally about ready to take out everything and start over, even though it all looks correct.

HAD a 2a fuse, installed a 3a fuse to test, still fails
Put an ammeter in line, got to the 5a limit on the meter and then blew that fuse

Any thoughts or additional troubleshooting steps would be awesome. Thanks!

[mrmotoguzzi00]

Ping Scotty :)

[TheTick]

Tried to PM him, system won’t let me. Will a tag here work? @scottyb?

[mrmotoguzzi00]

If he doesn't see it here and he is on here a lot, then send him an e-mail. I don't think he PM's or takes calls. If he did he would get nothing done for his business :)

[TheTick]

LOL totally understandable, these kits seem really popular:)

[TheTick]

If scottyb does see this, I’m getting continuity between the pedal side of that fuse (red/yellow) and the blue wire to the FnR ms even when the pedals not depressed. By the diagram that blue wire should be cold. Traced the harness and it’s all intact (and wasn’t pulled, just sayin).

[Tom47]

Is the diode on the solenoid coil installed in the right direction? The key switch sends 48+ to the solenoid as soon as the key switch is turned on.

If the diode is installed backwards, you will have a short directly to the negative terminal number 12 when the foot switch is closed. This will blow the fuse instantly.

Do not use larger than a 2 amp fuse. It is sized to protect the wiring only.

The stripe on the diode must face the light blue wire going to the key switch.

P.S. I'm going by standard IQ Alltrax wiring. Post your wiring diagram if this is not correct.

[scottyb]

Disconnect and remove the DC reducer. Do not connect accessories until the cart runs per the instructions!
Remove any common grounds between the DC reducer, accessories, and the kit.

I don't know that there would be any continuity between the red and blue wires. I've never had reason to check that. But if they did - it would not blow the fuse because they are the same polarity.

[TheTick]

I had removed the converter during testing with no change, I have a replacement diode on order to test, but will pull the common ground on my next test. Thanks!

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by TheTick

I had removed the converter during testing with no change, I have a replacement diode on order to test, but will pull the common ground on my next test. Thanks!

For better help contact my store support email where we can know your name and see your order and cart information. We will help you get this going including information on how to test the diode to see if that is even an issue