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Old 02-21-2016, 11:44 AM   #31
Rykker007
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And I don't seem to have the orange wire. The questionable wires are both yellow. Yellow from the speed box and yellow from the solenoid.


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Old 02-21-2016, 11:52 AM   #32
crash test dummy
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Default Re: Confusion on f&r switch wiring on early 80's Club Car 36v

no
you need to wire it like a 81 not with the 70s diagram

give me a few to look up something
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #33
crash test dummy
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Default Re: Confusion on f&r switch wiring on early 80's Club Car 36v

81 diagram



79 motor numbers


81 & up motor numbers



using the 81 diagram wire motor to 70s motor using the numbers

the f/r switch is a newer one so it is wired like this

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Old 02-21-2016, 12:18 PM   #34
Rykker007
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Thank you for all your knowledge. I'll try it and see what happens.


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Old 02-21-2016, 12:29 PM   #35
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Default Re: Confusion on f&r switch wiring on early 80's Club Car 36v

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Old 02-21-2016, 01:11 PM   #36
Rykker007
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The wiring seems to be picture perfect. All the solenoids are clicking one by one as the pedal is pressed. But no movement from the rear wheel. Is there an easy way to bench test the motor without removing it? I've seen low voltage test done showing the motor to work, but I don't remember how it's done.


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Old 02-21-2016, 01:13 PM   #37
crash test dummy
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Default Re: Confusion on f&r switch wiring on early 80's Club Car 36v

motor test

WARNING you don't want to make a big spark anywhere near the battery.

jumper cables may be used
black clip on battery negative,
red clip on motor A1 post, tap the other ends together

note : use 2 wrenches on motor studs to keep them from spinning
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:29 PM   #38
Rykker007
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Motor runs perfect. What could I be doing wrong?


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Old 02-21-2016, 01:33 PM   #39
crash test dummy
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Default Re: Confusion on f&r switch wiring on early 80's Club Car 36v

check cables for continuity

possibly the motor wiring is wrong

added : the drivers side solenoid must engage for motor to run

solenoid test
Quote:
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. remove all wires, restorer , and diode from solenoid
test 1
Connect an volt meter, set on continuity, place on the two large terminal studs. The meter should indicate no continuity, Replace the solenoid if continuity is present.
test 2
Using jumper wires attach from main positive and main negative of battery pack to the two small solenoid studs, polarity is not important. You should hear a click as the solenoid engages, and the meter should indicate continuity on the two large terminals. Replace the solenoid if continuity is not present.
if solenoid clicks rapidly solenoid is bad

Last edited by crash test dummy; 02-21-2016 at 01:40 PM.. Reason: added info
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