Marathon all go no slow

[JohnnieB]

The thread title is correct.
Looks like you've got a controller cart, but no controller.
Somebody hot wired it so the motor gets full battery pack voltage when the solenoid closes.

Here is a schematic of what it should be, but I'm more a theoretical troubleshooter than a fixer, so I'll defer to Scottyb (Carts Unlimited) and/or others that are familiar with repairing and upgrading Marathons to tell you what is needed to get the old girl running like she ought to.

[fishb8]

Now we know why it has and on/off switch instead of a key switch. She on or she's off. No in between.

Looks like you need a controller and some cables plus the diagram JonnieB added above.

[paulss]

So.......................Will I need anything other than a controller and some wire and what kind of controller and, while we're on the subject, does anyone have one they want to sell and where does it mount?

Thanks again,

Paul

[fishb8]

Get with one of the site sponsors to get a list. Scottyb has treated me right in the past.

You will need a controller. I can't tell from the pictures if there is a POTs box or not. There is something there but not sure what.
The controller mounts on the plate on the side of the Solenoid facing the motor(so the back of the plate).


Fish

[paulss]

Well, it just goes to show if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

If anyone can look at the pics and let me know what I'll need, I'll be most appreciative. As always, I'm on a budget.

Thanks,

Paul

[fishb8]

Here are some pictures to help. Hopefully someone smarter than me will help out.

[paulss]

Thanks fishb8, that makes it a little clearer. Do you have any idea what make and model controller that is?

Paul

[fishb8]

I can look when I get home, but the label is probably missing. I would guess it is a Curtis 275 amp.

[scottyb]

This is a new one on me I can read the advertisement now, " carts runs good, very fast"

Seriously you are missing the speed control. No telling what works they way it is wired now.
The original control would be a Curtis but an Alltrax AXE 3-400 amp would work also. These bigger controls need to be paired with bigger solenoids. The old one in the pic should be good up to 300a if it works.

[JohnnieB]

Curtis 1204, but I'd go with an aftermarket one.